BeigeAl

Looks like a 1300 sump, no scallops to clear big ends of a 1600.

A family member of mine worked on the development of this project at Laycocks Engineering (of overdrive gearboxes fame). Unfortunately I don't know much more about it as the family member now lives overseas.

I think the later Type 3 (there are two types of type 3 gearbox) was the only one fitted to a pinto and as far as I know it was only on the 1.6litre pinto. I wouldn't fit a type 3 behind a 2litre pinto. Not an overly strong gearbox. Certainly not as strong as a Type E. In my opinion if you're going to fit a type E jut fit a type 9 instead.

Why don't you fit right angle plug leads so that you can keep the dizzy and still clear underneath your carb(s)? Cheaper option!

Is that 2 pairs. or just the 1?

I've got a complete diff in nice condition with genuine Ford CWP, nice gear teeth, no rust in the gear teeth etc. £275. I can package if you send your own courier.

This is to fit a 1100/1300 rear bowl xflow engine - my very original mk2 1300 escort (which has a 711m 1300 block) came with one and all of the other 1100/1300 engines I bought came with one too. Numbers crossover - it doesn't mean it's only for a vehicle designated with "751" - for example a Lotus twincam has an anglia 105e dipstick.

1.75 imperial pints - it's all in the manuals! They are useful - if you haven't got one now's the time!

If ou have the standard 3 rail cortina box you'll need 75/90 mineral GL4 oil (do not use GL5), and for a standard rear axle an EP80/90 hypoid GL5 is what you need. I normally use Comma oils for axle and gearbox.

That's good news, glad it's all sorted. Just goes to show what these parts can withstand (ie pitting).

Backlash is 0.005-0.007" - if it's tighter than that there's an issue, and the bottom and top limit need to be quite close so you wouldn't want 0.005" at the tightest spot and 0.015" at the loosest - you'd want tightest ideally at 0.005" and loosest ideally no more than 0.007". Love the spanners in the boot comment!

Sounds a bit ominous! Is there corresponding corrosion on the pinion head over-run side? I wonder if some moisture has got in and sat on top of the oil and caused those marks where the teeth have have contacting? Has the car been sat over-winter?

If you have to ask you clearly aren't adult enough!! There's a secret handshake required to gain entry!!

Let's hope you can sort it - keep us posted. BTW - I've seen a 3.3 built up into a diff and they look OK but just aren't quite as good as a genuine Ford one.

I'm not sure if you took what I said the wrong way, or whether I've mistaken your intent? Didn't mean it shouldn't be taken to pieces, I meant that your missus just kept driving it and could somehow not be bothered by it! It's almost a blessing to be that way! I rebuild Ford diffs so I know when they're even slightly noisy there's a problem

Sometimes it's better to be ignorant than paranoid about every little noise! Wish I could loose my paranoia! Just about pull everything to pieces when I hear a noise! It's not looking good if there's loads of metal in the diff! Even so that crownwheel and pinion might be useful to hot-rod boys if it turns out no good for you. Be interested to see how this progresses and to hear about gear/teeth condition on the drive side - probably will have marks in them if the oil had metal in it.

What's the history of that diff? How long has it been fitted? That looks like corrosion in the teeth (is it?) but it's on the over-run side. I would say that the corrosion shouldn't make any noise if the corrosion doesn't have any high spots - oil should sit in low-spots if that's what they are. If the marks are only on the over-run side and sitting proud they should only affect deceleration. When does the diff make a noise? You sure it's not the LSD you've got fitted? Looks like a Tran-x Salisbury?

I wouldn't powder coat anything !! I had a rear bumper powder coated : the bumper subsequently had a slight ding to it about a year later which cracked the powder coat off. Underneath the powder coat the metal was very rusty - it had allowed moisture underneath it without even a hint of what was happening until it chipped off! Not a fan at all!

It's funny that the majority of those adverts are for cars overseas to Britain. Not really reflective of our own market prices if your intention is to sell in UK !!

You could swap the input shaft - if you get me a picture of the inside of your box I maybe able to do you a swap depending on what input shaft you have. You'll be able to keep your gearbox then and not have to travel in your search!

Extortionate cost based on your smart a##e response to my well-intentioned but on-the-face-of-it dim-witted earlier post!

I've got one for sale.

It might help you to state which car it's for and which crossmember you'll be using as the cortina 1200 gearbox mount is different to the anglia 1200 mount.

Try Joe @ Throbnozzle - he might have one, or if not be able to point you in the right direction.

Got a new old stock Genuine Ford one - £10 posted. PM me bud if interested. Cheers.