Hmmm what should i do? Go aspirated or stay with turbo?

[100ejohn]

Granted about throttle response BUT power to weight ratio i dont think you would have to much bother and you said yourself that all it does is wheel spin well there you go drifting is wheelspinning but in a controlled maner(sort off)

[PIG]

the wheelbase is still not long enough tho fella

[PIG]

i think you should do it kev,but barter with the guy thats interested in your engine m8

[100ejohn]

the wheelbase is still not long enough tho fella

 

er hello!!!!!!! it were'nt me that mentioned drifting it was himself i was just agreeing it would be nice to see an oldskoolford going for it

[Guest MK1gaz]

 

Its a 2.3 engine running 12:1 compression with 48mm Jenveys on it,Doug kiddy crank,rs500 rods,cosworth big valve head (£2k from cosworth on its own) with massive ports,wild cams,solid lifters,double valve springs,dry sumped. The crank pulley is off at the moment because Joe borrowed it for someone elses engine.

It runs on Pectel T2 management and comes as a package with exhaust manifold,starter motor,alternator and engine loom.

And it made just over 270bhp on Field motorsports engine dyno.

DO IT KEV . Ooooooooooh yes mate get it in there and join the Atmo YB Power posse , Baaaaaaaarrrrp , baaaaaaaarrrrrp , baaaaaaaarrrrrp

[tim]

cant you borrow 1 of icky fleet of cars

or at least his ht pinto

[Retromotorsport]

Kev, an honest answer...

 

De-tune your engine, or perhaps de-tune is the wrong word,

 

Change the turbo, go small .. aim for 300-350bhp, anymore is wheelspin, but keep the torque up, helps with the ratios and use the torque to drive around the lack of revs.

 

The other thing to consider is the trackdays ettiquette of no overtaking, you can only go around the corner as fast as the car infront, so when on track, follow the car through the corner, but go for a late apex, as the other car heads towards the outside of the track, you power through with the torque.

 

A 300bhp YB turbo will last far longer than a 9000rpm screamer, i mean you'll be looking at a full rebuild every year doing trackdays on an N/A.

270-285 is the max on a 2.0 N/A cossie and thats on a full race engine, race engines do what, 5-10 hours of running a year, then its re-built for safety wether its got a rattle or piston slap or sounds sweet.

 

And then theres the fact that 1 post in 50 of yours will mention tubbing, arching and grip, you will do it one day, maybe not next year or the year after that, maybe you'll be 50 when you do it, and Luke will be sharing the car with you, but you know you'll do it one day, with the YB in there, change the turbo again and use the grip

[kevmk2]

cant you borrow 1 of icky fleet of cars

or at least his ht pinto

 

Thats a good idea,but i would rather be in my own car out on track with him in his,so we can have a laugh

[kevmk2]

Kev, an honest answer...

 

De-tune your engine, or perhaps de-tune is the wrong word,

 

Change the turbo, go small .. aim for 300-350bhp, anymore is wheelspin, but keep the torque up, helps with the ratios and use the torque to drive around the lack of revs.

 

The other thing to consider is the trackdays ettiquette of no overtaking, you can only go around the corner as fast as the car infront, so when on track, follow the car through the corner, but go for a late apex, as the other car heads towards the outside of the track, you power through with the torque.

 

A 300bhp YB turbo will last far longer than a 9000rpm screamer, i mean you'll be looking at a full rebuild every year doing trackdays on an N/A.

270-285 is the max on a 2.0 N/A cossie and thats on a full race engine, race engines do what, 5-10 hours of running a year, then its re-built for safety wether its got a rattle or piston slap or sounds sweet.

 

And then theres the fact that 1 post in 50 of yours will mention tubbing, arching and grip, you will do it one day, maybe not next year or the year after that, maybe you'll be 50 when you do it, and Luke will be sharing the car with you, but you know you'll do it one day, with the YB in there, change the turbo again and use the grip

 

Thanks for the reply Gary, i see where you are coming from.

But i do miss the responsiveness of an aspirated engine and the sound of course

It was either consider doing this or sell the car and build another escort on a budget,which we all know goes out the window when you have an escort

But if i sell the car and pay my debts off i wont have enough money left over to build another escort,i would probably be able to get a cheap 4 door mk2 and put a pinto in it,but thats about it.

So now im looking at other ways of paying my debts off and keeping the car,it wont be easy but ive got to try. Ive got 2 mk2 escorts lined up that want bits doing on them,so that will give me a bit of money.

I sometimes miss my old YB engine with T34 on it and the responsiveness that it had,but all along i have always missed my old pinto and wished that i got it out on the track when it was still pinto'd,thats the only thing i never got around to doing in it,i was too busy doing 1/4 mile stuff,which is why i went turbo power to go quicker in a straight line.

I feel like im going around in circles

[Retromotorsport]

what power did you have with the old turbo ... and can you get a smaller one than that .. 300 is what i'd be aiming at ..

[escort21]

If it was me i'd go for tha naturally aspirated engine just for a change mate

[Nick Mexi-cos]

Kev, an honest answer...

 

De-tune your engine, or perhaps de-tune is the wrong word,

 

Change the turbo, go small .. aim for 300-350bhp, anymore is wheelspin, but keep the torque up, helps with the ratios and use the torque to drive around the lack of revs.

 

The other thing to consider is the trackdays ettiquette of no overtaking, you can only go around the corner as fast as the car infront, so when on track, follow the car through the corner, but go for a late apex, as the other car heads towards the outside of the track, you power through with the torque.

 

A 300bhp YB turbo will last far longer than a 9000rpm screamer, i mean you'll be looking at a full rebuild every year doing trackdays on an N/A.

270-285 is the max on a 2.0 N/A cossie and thats on a full race engine, race engines do what, 5-10 hours of running a year, then its re-built for safety wether its got a rattle or piston slap or sounds sweet.

 

And then theres the fact that 1 post in 50 of yours will mention tubbing, arching and grip, you will do it one day, maybe not next year or the year after that, maybe you'll be 50 when you do it, and Luke will be sharing the car with you, but you know you'll do it one day, with the YB in there, change the turbo again and use the grip

 

 

Nice answer there Mr Gary

 

I understand your situation matey , and think i would sell the engine in the car and go for the N/A and even if you do deside later that you want more grip the car can still be arched at a later date , also Mad mick is running standard t5 box with his car and that aint let go yet so can handle the power ok just a matter of finding the right diff ratio which suits your car , speaking with Wayne mick's gearing was all wrong at brands but still seemed to lap very well imagine what it would of been like on 4.1 at brands ,

 

I also see gary Point about de-tuning your engine to make the power more usuable but again you will want to arch the car at some stage . its a hard toss , there car is so well prepped there should not be a lot of work to do if your keeping T5 box , dry sump tank in the boot , you got fueling what else is there

 

But i say GO FOR IT MATE NOTHING LIKE THE SOUND OF A SCREAMING N/A BUT HEY WHAT DO I KNOW

[kevmk2]

what power did you have with the old turbo ... and can you get a smaller one than that .. 300 is what i'd be aiming at ..

 

Old engine was 403bhp. Thing is now the engine is low compression and has massive ports in the head. I would have to change so much to de-power it. Injectors,turbo,re-map etc etc. All that i cannot afford to do.

[Nick Mexi-cos]

Iam sure that if you had the money , you would arch the car and run mahoosive wheels with the engine thats in the car now , just like baileys

But to do it the way the car has been built already would cost you loads

[kevmk2]

Kev, an honest answer...

 

De-tune your engine, or perhaps de-tune is the wrong word,

 

Change the turbo, go small .. aim for 300-350bhp, anymore is wheelspin, but keep the torque up, helps with the ratios and use the torque to drive around the lack of revs.

 

The other thing to consider is the trackdays ettiquette of no overtaking, you can only go around the corner as fast as the car infront, so when on track, follow the car through the corner, but go for a late apex, as the other car heads towards the outside of the track, you power through with the torque.

 

A 300bhp YB turbo will last far longer than a 9000rpm screamer, i mean you'll be looking at a full rebuild every year doing trackdays on an N/A.

270-285 is the max on a 2.0 N/A cossie and thats on a full race engine, race engines do what, 5-10 hours of running a year, then its re-built for safety wether its got a rattle or piston slap or sounds sweet.

 

And then theres the fact that 1 post in 50 of yours will mention tubbing, arching and grip, you will do it one day, maybe not next year or the year after that, maybe you'll be 50 when you do it, and Luke will be sharing the car with you, but you know you'll do it one day, with the YB in there, change the turbo again and use the grip

 

 

Nice answer there Mr Gary

 

I understand your situation matey , and think i would sell the engine in the car and go for the N/A and even if you do deside later that you want more grip the car can still be arched at a later date , also Mad mick is running standard t5 box with his car and that aint let go yet so can handle the power ok just a matter of finding the right diff ratio which suits your car , speaking with Wayne mick's gearing was all wrong at brands but still seemed to lap very well imagine what it would of been like on 4.1 at brands ,

 

I also see gary Point about de-tuning your engine to make the power more usuable but again you will want to arch the car at some stage . its a hard toss , there car is so well prepped there should not be a lot of work to do if your keeping T5 box , dry sump tank in the boot , you got fueling what else is there

 

But i say GO FOR IT MATE NOTHING LIKE THE SOUND OF A SCREAMING N/A BUT HEY WHAT DO I KNOW

 

Cheers mate, Joe said all my fuel system and stay as it is and its still dizzyless so i can use my coilpack again. I will have the intercooler to sell,which my bro might have from me for his car. All ive got to muck about with is the dry sump system,which i may put a tank under the bonnet like HT's do,works out much cheaper on hoses etc and is more efficient. I would keep the standard T5 box for the time being and see how it bares up,i know they dont like changing up fast at high revs,but we will see. As for the diff i will see how that is too,can always change the ratio at a later date.

[oliwally]

Or sell this engine and buy James x-flow

[Nick Mexi-cos]

Kev, an honest answer...

 

De-tune your engine, or perhaps de-tune is the wrong word,

 

Change the turbo, go small .. aim for 300-350bhp, anymore is wheelspin, but keep the torque up, helps with the ratios and use the torque to drive around the lack of revs.

 

The other thing to consider is the trackdays ettiquette of no overtaking, you can only go around the corner as fast as the car infront, so when on track, follow the car through the corner, but go for a late apex, as the other car heads towards the outside of the track, you power through with the torque.

 

A 300bhp YB turbo will last far longer than a 9000rpm screamer, i mean you'll be looking at a full rebuild every year doing trackdays on an N/A.

270-285 is the max on a 2.0 N/A cossie and thats on a full race engine, race engines do what, 5-10 hours of running a year, then its re-built for safety wether its got a rattle or piston slap or sounds sweet.

 

And then theres the fact that 1 post in 50 of yours will mention tubbing, arching and grip, you will do it one day, maybe not next year or the year after that, maybe you'll be 50 when you do it, and Luke will be sharing the car with you, but you know you'll do it one day, with the YB in there, change the turbo again and use the grip

 

 

Nice answer there Mr Gary

 

I understand your situation matey , and think i would sell the engine in the car and go for the N/A and even if you do deside later that you want more grip the car can still be arched at a later date , also Mad mick is running standard t5 box with his car and that aint let go yet so can handle the power ok just a matter of finding the right diff ratio which suits your car , speaking with Wayne mick's gearing was all wrong at brands but still seemed to lap very well imagine what it would of been like on 4.1 at brands ,

 

I also see gary Point about de-tuning your engine to make the power more usuable but again you will want to arch the car at some stage . its a hard toss , there car is so well prepped there should not be a lot of work to do if your keeping T5 box , dry sump tank in the boot , you got fueling what else is there

 

But i say GO FOR IT MATE NOTHING LIKE THE SOUND OF A SCREAMING N/A BUT HEY WHAT DO I KNOW

 

Cheers mate, Joe said all my fuel system and stay as it is and its still dizzyless so i can use my coilpack again. I will have the intercooler to sell,which my bro might have from me for his car. All ive got to muck about with is the dry sump system,which i may put a tank under the bonnet like HT's do,works out much cheaper on hoses etc and is more efficient. I would keep the standard T5 box for the time being and see how it bares up,i know they dont like changing up fast at high revs,but we will see. As for the diff i will see how that is too,can always change the ratio at a later date.

 

Not to much work then , yea dry sump tank in engine bay like turkish Johs car , nice matey , so there ya go n/a power

[boXXer]

do it mate. You've done your quarter mile stuff, and done it well, now flog it and go N/A and have some proper fun with it.

[cossie matt]

That looks lovely mate, I'd say do it (I would) but I also know that you would have to spend a lot more than just the price of the engine to make it FAST round a track. As you said, your ratio's would be all wrong on a T5 and the dry sump installation would still cost a pretty penny even though you have the pan and pump.

 

You have a great base to start it's just the extra cost to make the N/A work properly.

 

Your call mate but in my opinion it's what your beautiful car deserves

[tim]

cant you borrow 1 of icky fleet of cars

or at least his ht pinto

 

Thats a good idea,but i would rather be in my own car out on track with him in his,so we can have a laugh

 

hasnt he got enough cars to run a fleet of them

[petrolhead]

Detune it to 300bhp, maximise reliability and do it carefully and you'll have no lag. I know it will cost money but doing the Screaming NA route will cost even more money in the long term and reliability will suffer.

 

Just my opinion of course

[Mk 1 Mark]

My own opinion is it will make your car even better for you mate...

Love your car as it is ......but N/A is awesome...

Driveability on the track and on the road is so much more fun....

And not so scary!!!

The sound......

Kev its your car but id say do it fella

If thats the way you want to go.

And hope you get what you want for your engine

[kevmk2]

That looks lovely mate, I'd say do it (I would) but I also know that you would have to spend a lot more than just the price of the engine to make it FAST round a track. As you said, your ratio's would be all wrong on a T5 and the dry sump installation would still cost a pretty penny even though you have the pan and pump.

 

You have a great base to start it's just the extra cost to make the N/A work properly.

 

Your call mate but in my opinion it's what your beautiful car deserves

 

Thanks for the reply Matt,was wondering what you thought about it

I was thinking of having the dry sump tank under the bonnet like you did to save a bit on hoses etc,i would probably keep it with rubber hoses too.

With the gearbox i think i would drive it and see what its like on the road,then i could decide if i wanted to change to a straight cut box at a later date,dunno if a straight cut type 9 box would last that long with all the revs,although the rev limit is at 8300rpm because its a stroker engine and you dont need it to rev as high as a 2.0.

AS for the track days i would only but some toyo or yoko treaded slicks for it,it would still be fun i think

[kevmk2]

Detune it to 300bhp, maximise reliability and do it carefully and you'll have no lag. I know it will cost money but doing the Screaming NA route will cost even more money in the long term and reliability will suffer.

 

Just my opinion of course

 

Cheers for you input mate, I could do as you say and go less power with my current engine. But that would cost me money also. With the current spec i would have to consider raising the compression ratio and possibly changing the cylinder head due to mine having big ports in it,the head is good for 550bhp. Theres so much spinning around in my head at the moment i dunno what to do

[kevmk2]

My own opinion is it will make your car even better for you mate...

Love your car as it is ......but N/A is awesome...

Driveability on the track and on the road is so much more fun....

And not so scary!!!

The sound......

Kev its your car but id say do it fella

If thats the way you want to go.

And hope you get what you want for your engine

 

 

Cheers Mark,

 

It all rides on whether i sell my engine or not and if i get the asking price for it,otherwise it wont be worth my while doing it tbh.

Or i can just sell the car as it is and do a cheap 4 door and have a laugh in that