Starting problems

[jimbo]

Last few months, we've had problems starting the car in the cold.

 

It's sparking nice and strong at all four plugs and when it's warm starts/runs a treat. So I figure it's something to do with the cold start.

 

On the weekend, I run some carb cleaner through it. Since then, It's been really troublesome.

 

The car/carb info (including pics) is found here http://www.oldskoolford.co.uk/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=62810&highlight= and yes it's an auto choke.

 

The only thing I noticed when I ran the carb cleaner through, was that when I squirted it down one barrel (the one nearest the engine) the car really struggled to keep ticking over.

 

Any ideas what I need to do to invesigate/resolve folks?

 

Your help, as always is greatly appreciated.

 

Cheers,

Jim

[jimbo]

Still needin some help here folks....

 

Especially about whether I should expect different pulls through the carb barrels.

[Twinkle]

bung a post up in the tech section m8 the boffins all hang out in there

[bullittcraig]

Have you first checked the ignition timing and points first? I had an issue with the clamp that holds the dizzy came loose and allowed the dizzy to move about. As far as the engine struggling to run when carb cleaner is sprayed down the barrel i thought that is normal as it would effect it like that.

[Rick]

maybe fit a manual choke.

[Savvi]

What air filter are you running ?

My Mk2 Ghia has suffered this week i found pump the pedal twice then it starts and revs as it should as soon as you touch the pedal again it dies

 

Mines got a K&N fitted and i think its running too weak.

 

If you put carb cleaner down you may have made it worse, it tends to free up all the crap and block the jets at the bottom. The carb is twin choke, which means the one that that changed the engine note is the 1st choke then the 2nd comes in after 1/2 throttle.There is also idle jets on either side of the carb they look like brass blanking screws. You could take these out and blow them through and you should really take the top off remove the jets in the bottom and blow them through.

 

To check the choke leave the filter off press the acc. pedal then the choke flap should fully close, if it doesn't losen the 3 screws on the choke housing and rotate until it does, then run the engine and as it warms up the choke flap will open up.

 

This might help a little but it sounds like you need to strip and clean or possibly replace the jets etc ........ ebay had some overall kits on sale recently.

[omj624p]

Surely it's just a problem with the auto choke?

 

I had similar troubles in the past as mine are auto chokes too. I used to wedge the top flaps open by popping something like a screwdriver handle in the carb!!!! And mine always started after that (although it wouldnt idle as the choke was effectively off)

 

But this test should prove if it is just simply the auto choke playing you up. It's got to be worth a try.

 

Steve

[jimbo]

OK Thanks for all your pointers so far, they've come in very handy. Here's an update on work done this weekend.

 

Points are good. Replaced rotor, cap and HT Leads. Removed and cleaned plugs (not that they needed it) Checked all other LT, earths, etc. for good connection.

 

Battery check revealed that battery is healthy and well charged.

 

Air filter is the standard big black frying pan effort, not an K&N.

 

I removed the two idle jets and they were nice and clean. Auto choke starts fully closed and phases nicely as the engine warms up.

 

Despite it being -6 last night, I did convince the car to start, but it sounded very laboured when turning over (like when your battery is nearly flat)

 

Starter motor was recently refurbed with new bushes/bearings/brushes and performs well when engine is warm.

 

So I'm kinda back to square one.

 

I still have timing to check (need to borrow a timing light) and the carb to refurb once I've got the right kit. But given how it starts so poorly, then runs so well when warm, I struggle to see how any of that will help.

 

It sounds almost like the engine is frozen Are there any other ideas that you guys can throa at me?

[Burns]

could be that your oil is nice and cold making it hard for the engine to turn over? mine does that in the mornings but it's alright for the rest of the day

[MexDan]

Have you checked and cleaned your earth straps and leads?? ie one from engine to body??

 

This can cause it to be difficult to start and then run fine.

 

If the timing is far off then the engine would turn over slowly and then fire... but you would be able to notice the difference when your driving it if it was that far off!!!

 

Could be worth a check tho!!

 

I say clean up contacts and check they are all sparkly and you have a good earth... The take a look at timing

 

[jimbo]

could be that your oil is nice and cold making it hard for the engine to turn over? mine does that in the mornings but it's alright for the rest of the day

 

Could be Didn't have this problem last year when running 10/40. Now running 20/50w.

[jimbo]

Have you checked and cleaned your earth straps and leads?? ie one from engine to body??

 

This can cause it to be difficult to start and then run fine.

 

If the timing is far off then the engine would turn over slowly and then fire... but you would be able to notice the difference when your driving it if it was that far off!!!

 

Could be worth a check tho!!

 

I say clean up contacts and check they are all sparkly and you have a good earth... The take a look at timing

 

 

Earths were all cleaned on the weekend. I think it might be worth ruling out the timing next. I'll see if I can borrow a light locally.

[Savvi]

If its turning over slowly then i would say oil 20/50 is thicker when cold then 10/40.

 

It really sounds like the starter is still at fault if all the leads connections are good.

 

Was it a refurb from a motor factors ? Sometimes they only replace the parts that look faulty, it sounds like the slip ring is worn ........... it segments of copper that the brushes pick up on if two segments are joined togeather this will give the problem you have ?

 

Might be worth trying another starter ?

[Ratters]

check the timing & maybe try some decent 10/40 semi symthetic.

[jimbo]

Was it a refurb from a motor factors ? Sometimes they only replace the parts that look faulty, it sounds like the slip ring is worn ........... it segments of copper that the brushes pick up on if two segments are joined togeather this will give the problem you have ?

 

Might be worth trying another starter ?

 

I refurbed the the starter myself. Slip ring was in good nick...If slip ring, would it not be poor performance all the time, rather than just when cold?

 

Whilst I wait to get my mitts on a timing light, I'm trying to rule other things out. So this morning I started the car and switched off after 30 seconds running. Started fine then. I'll bear it in mind though if timing fails to sort it.