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Posted

not sure if this is in the right section but it does include OSF`s, so feel free to move it if its in the wrong place. as of tomorrow, my employers are putting a complete and utter tw&t in charge of us, so its time for me to move on!! i`ve been thinking of starting my own fibreglass business up for ages and now seems like a good time to do it!! so if you need any fibreglass panels doing, get in touch! as long as you`ve got a panel to mould from, i can probably do it. i know Old Ford Auto`s do grp panels for 105`s and 100e`s but can you get capri panels or mk2 cortina etc? i will also be doing enclosed trailers/workshops aswell, so if you`ve got an open wheel trailer you want boxing in, again, get in touch!! or i`ll do 1 from scratch to your sizes/requirements,aswell as any repairs or modifications to anything GRP. i`ve got a nice and cheap unit already so wont be charging loads like some people do! as a quick price guide, i made a mould and a job out, from a 1969 Chevy Camaro bonnet with 4" cowl scoop for £120. try getting the mould made for that price off someone else!! i`m based in the Midlands but could possibly collect and deliver cheaply too. this is the 1st place i`ve advertised/mentioned it, so lets see what it brings!! pm me on here or e-mail me on deano.harris1@blueyonder.co.uk cheers, Dean :thumbsup:

Posted

door skins not a problem :thumbsup: did think about 105e body not long back, but is a massive amount of work, but if your pockets are deep enough, anythings possible :wink:

Posted

why not just have the rear quarters done in fibreglass? keep the strength with the roof but save a load more on weight? on the car and in your pocket!! and what do you mean by door skins? a door with no inner frame or just the lower part of the door(below the window?)

Posted

im building a complete spaceframe so strength isnt an issue :thumbsup: and yeh door skins as literally the skin with only minimal strengthening, its just an idea :thumbsup:

Posted

have you seen my Anglia with the chassis i`m building? its in projects and resto`s under pro-street 105e. what engine you using in yours?

Posted

yeh im following that closely :thumbsup: , im going for a full tube spaceframe with an XE in it to be upgraded to a duratec or BD when i get some decent money under my belt.

IRS rear suspension, massive rubber, sequential box, trick front suspension etc not in a hurry to get it done, just when time allows (probably end of season i'll start some serious work on it) :thumbsup:

Posted

May sound like a silly question, but do you need panels to be off the car to be able to make a mould from it, and does it need to be a good new panel to be able to make a good copy?

I have looked everywhere for fibre glass replacement wings for the front of my Porsche 911 sc (1983) OSP! but no one seems to do them and Porsche wings are bloody dear and tend to be prone to the elements especially around the head lamp area.

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Cheers

Posted

it is easier to mould a wing when its off, theres less chance of damaging other panels etc. and the mould will only be as good as the panel its taken off, but its easy to make them good with filler etc. :thumbsup:

Posted

i`ll be making seats similar to these Kirkey ones soon if anyones interested(in grp!) black finish:-

4387329122f76a11b072d692a0776f39f7de7909899f8788c05f05e974c930d271ea5be9.jpg

about £80 each or cheaper for a pair :wink:

Posted
i made a mould and a job out, from a 1969 Chevy Camaro bonnet with 4" cowl scoop for £120. try getting the mould made for that price off someone else!!

 

I doubt you would - that barely covers costs. I used to do GRP manufacture and trimming back in the late 80's and £120 would be far too cheap back then. A decent mould takes at least a week to make, polish up and wax if you want to be able to make more than a couple of plugs from it without it falling to bits or bending out of shape.

 

If you're going to do it, please make decent moulds and take decent plugs out of them trimmed up properly and without a ton of air voids or crack marks in the gel coat due to a poor mould. There's already plenty of companies turning out some real cack already and what we need is a decent one.

Posted
i made a mould and a job out, from a 1969 Chevy Camaro bonnet with 4" cowl scoop for £120. try getting the mould made for that price off someone else!!

 

I doubt you would - that barely covers costs. I used to do GRP manufacture and trimming back in the late 80's and £120 would be far too cheap back then. A decent mould takes at least a week to make, polish up and wax if you want to be able to make more than a couple of plugs from it without it falling to bits or bending out of shape.

 

ok mate, i`m lying. :roll: thanks for telling me how to do a job i`ve been doing for the last 18 years :wink:

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Posted
i made a mould and a job out, from a 1969 Chevy Camaro bonnet with 4" cowl scoop for £120. try getting the mould made for that price off someone else!!

 

I doubt you would - that barely covers costs. I used to do GRP manufacture and trimming back in the late 80's and £120 would be far too cheap back then. A decent mould takes at least a week to make, polish up and wax if you want to be able to make more than a couple of plugs from it without it falling to bits or bending out of shape.

 

ok mate, i`m lying. :roll: thanks for telling me how to do a job i`ve been doing for the last 18 years :wink:

 

Easy, my interpretation of Conors post is that he's supporting you by saying that you wouldn't get it cheaper elsewhere. I'd be wary of touting for business on here and then shooting down your potential customers.

Posted

my interpretation of his post is he`s saying i`m lying about charging £120 for said bonnet and telling me how to do a mould. and as for a potential customer, he`s obviously done it before and will be able to do his own moulds and panels, so wont be needing anything off me!! :thumbsup:

 

and as for the £120 for the bonnet, materials cost was £70. mould was made for a `1 off job out` and the guy i done it for done the prep work. thats why it was cheaper. and the said bonnet is still running 9.6 seconds down the 1/4 mile @ over 140mph and is still in perfect shape and condition 2 years on. not really sure why i`ve had to explain myself but there you go. :roll:

  • Admin
Posted
my interpretation of his post is he`s saying i`m lying about charging £120 for said bonnet and telling me how to do a mould. and as for a potential customer, he`s obviously done it before and will be able to do his own moulds and panels, so wont be needing anything off me!! :thumbsup:

 

and as for the £120 for the bonnet, materials cost was £70. mould was made for a `1 off job out` and the guy i done it for done the prep work. thats why it was cheaper. and the said bonnet is still running 9.6 seconds down the 1/4 mile @ over 140mph and is still in perfect shape and condition 2 years on. not really sure why i`ve had to explain myself but there you go. :roll:

 

Well you're reading it wrong.

 

You said: Try and get it cheaper elsewhere

 

Copey said: I doubt you would.

 

As to explain yourself, nobody asked you to. You obviously felt the need to justify you're own sharp comments, which will put off all customers not just Copey.

Posted

:

 

Well you're reading it wrong.

 

You said: Try and get it cheaper elsewhere

 

Copey said: I doubt you would.

 

As to explain yourself, nobody asked you to. You obviously felt the need to justify you're own sharp comments, which will put off all customers not just Copey.

 

read it again mate, what CONOR is saying is he doubts i made it for £120 and when he was in the `glassing trade in the `90`s, £120 would`ve been too cheap back then.

Posted

Ignore any negative comments and concentrate on good quality work and ask people to spread the word. You have to get a good reputation for quality at a good price to make a go of it. Good luck. :thumbsup:

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