baz105e Posted January 9, 2010 Report Posted January 9, 2010 how do i go about setting up my diff properly??? Ive had to take mine apart as i welded it but some shite got in between the crown and pinion and couldn't get it to turn, Ive gathered you have to turn the two threaded pieces with holes in them to take up the slack but how much slack should there be and how do i measure the slack. Ive never fooked about with diffs before, Ive changed them but never had one apart. Ive been told if i don't get it spot on then it'll whine its tits off or rumble like fook. any help would be much appreciated baz :edit: it is a standard 3.9/1
wonderfulweasel Posted January 10, 2010 Report Posted January 10, 2010 I'd like to know this too, as I suspect I'll be doing something similar fairly soon.
w p e Posted January 10, 2010 Report Posted January 10, 2010 its not a simple job thats why we get paid to do such things. so if i told you i would need to shoot you
sambo Posted January 10, 2010 Report Posted January 10, 2010 its not a simple job thats why we get paid to do such things. so if i told you i would need to shoot you
KJ 1320 Posted January 10, 2010 Report Posted January 10, 2010 Only 1 way to learn Leave it to the professionals!
Joe-ashtonmobile Posted January 10, 2010 Report Posted January 10, 2010 Only 1 way to learn Leave it to the professionals!
l j shaw Posted January 10, 2010 Report Posted January 10, 2010 Or find a helpful professional that will show you, for a nominal fee.
V8ian Posted January 10, 2010 Report Posted January 10, 2010 its not a simple job thats why we get paid to do such things. so if i told you i would need to shoot you Got to agree, I used to install 6ft dia crownwheel/pinions to marine bow thrusters, especially when they had to be done to LLoyds marine specs
Toby Posted January 11, 2010 Report Posted January 11, 2010 thanks for the help guys They are not pulling your chain - it's not straight forward and you'll need equipment you probably wont have lying around your garage. You need a DTI to set the cap spread and back lash. I'm sure the person you ask would let you watch and then you'll know appreciate they're not being difficult. Even Haynes manuals say "remove the diff - give it to an expert."
Toby Posted January 11, 2010 Report Posted January 11, 2010 For what it's worth, it not worth guessing it and thinking it feels about right because you run the very high risk of damaging the CWP, and that won't save you money in the long run. Sorry it's not what you want to hear.
baz105e Posted January 11, 2010 Author Report Posted January 11, 2010 no worries, i have a mate who has lots of engineering type measuring equipment, if anyone could tell me the tollerance for the backlash measurement it would be very much appreciated thx, baz
samurai Posted January 11, 2010 Report Posted January 11, 2010 No one can tell you the backlash. You have to measure your diff and work out some figures Once you worked it out you have to follow a chart to find the backlash. I have the sheet in front of me
samurai Posted January 11, 2010 Report Posted January 11, 2010 Or if i turn the page over it says backlash in 3 positions is 0.13 - 0.18mm preload on pinion bearing (not pinion nut torque) 13lbs - 19lbs on running torque gauage without oil seal + add about 3lbs with oil seal fitted.
Toby Posted January 11, 2010 Report Posted January 11, 2010 no worries, i have a mate who has lots of engineering type measuring equipment, if anyone could tell me the tolerance for the backlash measurement it would be very much appreciated thx, baz Backlash (checked in 3 places) between CW and P is 0.13-0.18mm according to my bit of paper. So around 0.005 to 0.007" in imperial. Use a cap spread of about 0.005" to pre-load the bearings. Good luck Same bit of paper Samurai?
Toby Posted January 11, 2010 Report Posted January 11, 2010 13lbs - 19lbs on running torque gauage without oil seal + add about 3lbs with oil seal fitted. Don't undo the nut if you can avoid it. If you do mark it and the pinion so you can do it back up how it was before, degrease the thread and add a bit of loctite thread lock to the pinion and nut. Thinking about it, you could mark the side nuts too if you're purley taking it appart to get the splatter out. That way it will go back the way it was set up from the factory!
Darran Posted January 11, 2010 Report Posted January 11, 2010 Yep agree with Toby and wayne,just leave it to people that know... Many many years ago my fist 3:7 lsd lasted 20 miles as it was set up by "a expert" without a clue.... Ht racing have set up diffs for me ever since never had a problem Give them a shout.
100e Den Posted January 11, 2010 Report Posted January 11, 2010 W.P.E do mine baz!.............say no more son......lol!
baz105e Posted January 12, 2010 Author Report Posted January 12, 2010 thanks very much to you all im a little more in the know now
wonderfulweasel Posted January 16, 2010 Report Posted January 16, 2010 Thanks for the help chaps. Can anyone recommend a place to set one up in either Birmingham or Bristol? Cheers
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