mk2 mike Posted July 8, 2014 Report Posted July 8, 2014 Anyone know what thread is on a mk2 escort lower ball joint? The 16mm nut on mine keeps coming loose. I tightened it yesterday but today it's loosened a couple of threads and is knocking. I'll replace it with a nyloc if I can get the thread size. <br /><br />Ta. 1
iandq Posted July 8, 2014 Report Posted July 8, 2014 is the taper seating properly, it doesn't sound right to me! cheers, ian.
mk2 mike Posted July 8, 2014 Author Report Posted July 8, 2014 No idea. I'll have a closer look tomorrow.
over_head_cam Posted July 8, 2014 Report Posted July 8, 2014 Is it a nyloc at the moment or a squashed nut ot castellated with a split pin?
mk2 mike Posted July 8, 2014 Author Report Posted July 8, 2014 It looks like a regular nut. Nothing special?
Admin Vista Posted July 8, 2014 Admin Report Posted July 8, 2014 I'm surprised it passed an MOT like that, I thought things like that had to be secured against coming loose?
mk2 mike Posted July 8, 2014 Author Report Posted July 8, 2014 He tightened it during the mot yesterday but it came loose again on the drive home. I tightened it again today but it loosened off after 5/10 mins.
gearbox100 Posted July 8, 2014 Report Posted July 8, 2014 I would check the joint isn't seized , if its ok the fit a nyloc nut
over_head_cam Posted July 9, 2014 Report Posted July 9, 2014 As Vista said, it should have some sort of method of locking. And yes, as gearbox100 said check that the ball joint has movement (but not like a limp wrist lol) then fit a nyloc. In the meantime, if you have another normal nut you can add that to lock it.
mk2 mike Posted July 9, 2014 Author Report Posted July 9, 2014 Thanks guys. So anyone know the thread do I can get another nut?
macford Posted July 9, 2014 Report Posted July 9, 2014 Take it with you to a hardware shop ,(if it's that loose take it off at the shop )They will be able to check and replace Take a close look and see if there's a hole for a split pin to go through,if so Castle nut Good hardware store should have a castle nut
DT36 Posted July 9, 2014 Report Posted July 9, 2014 Put new TCAs and nylocs on mine last week, but didn't look at the size. However, what I did with the track rod ends and the ball joint was to put a jack under them before I tightened them up. This ensures the taper is all the way in.
katana Posted July 9, 2014 Report Posted July 9, 2014 Aren't there two different tapers? These things normally lock in tight immediately so that the nut is almost overkill! Obviously if taper is wrong it'll never fit properly!
mk2 mike Posted July 9, 2014 Author Report Posted July 9, 2014 I'm sure it used to be ok, only a while ago it started knocking, so I assume it was the right one? When the MOT tester tightened it he said it was all good so I (again) assume it was the right one. Anyone know if its a metric thread?
DT36 Posted July 11, 2014 Report Posted July 11, 2014 I'm sure it used to be ok, only a while ago it started knocking, so I assume it was the right one? When the MOT tester tightened it he said it was all good so I (again) assume it was the right one. Anyone know if its a metric thread? Hi Mike. Hard to say what thread you have and it could be either. Look at the pic below I've just taken. These are 2 different threads. The TCA on the left is a new one from Rally Design for the left hand side and the TCA on the right is an old one for the right hand side. One has metric threads and the other is imperial. 1
mk2 mike Posted July 11, 2014 Author Report Posted July 11, 2014 Imperial and metric? That's handy lol. Thanks mate I might just get them replaced.
DT36 Posted July 11, 2014 Report Posted July 11, 2014 Imperial and metric? That's handy lol. Thanks mate I might just get them replaced. I got mine from Rally Design with the yellow Polysport bushes. These are classed as fast road use, where as the red bushes are harder for the track. If you go for these, what I would suggest though before you attempt to fit them is to get 2 new shouldered bolts and nylocs for inner bush where it goes through the crossmember. I had a proper Dime Bar moment trying to get them to fit, until I realised the bolt was too big for the inner bush. At the same time, you might as well replace the track rod ends on the steering rack, as you might have to beat these out too. Take the bush inner sleeve to a Motor Factors and make sure the shoulder of the bolt is a nice snug fit... My Track Rod Ends have just arrived this morning, as I didn't think to order them at the same time as the TCAs (Dime Bar x2), so will be fitting them and cursing within the next hour. Also have a new relay to fit to my fuel pump.
Tom E Cropp Posted July 11, 2014 Report Posted July 11, 2014 You could always measure it with some verniers first of all measure the diameter of the thread say that's 10mm the nut you require would be m10 then you need to find the pitch, so measure the distance between the threads say that's 1.5mm this would mean the nut you need is m10 x 1.5 If the diameter is 9.5mm it's Proberly 3/8 11.1mm is 7/16 and so on so if it's not 10, 12 or 14mm it's likely to be imperial if that's the case it will either be unc or unf (coarse & fine threads) If that makes sense! 1
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