Conor

Judging by the fact he's turning it into a spaceframed racer, hillclimb, track racing or drag racing.

In that case doesn't it then also apply that it's morally wrong to everyone running YB Turbo'd stuff, Zetec, Duratec, XE redtops, BOA/BOB cosworths, 4 pot Brembo/whatever brake conversions, rear discs, coilover conversions, TranX/Quaife axles/gearboxes, 5 linking and everything else that wasn't done when they were competing in the 70's and 80's? Makes it hellishly restrictive though and cars like Darrens MK1 wouldn't exist on here for a start and neither would a huge amount of the OSF tin that went up the strip yesterday.

Sadly, it wasn't. It was in the morning on the way there. Poor bugger got within 30 miles of Santa Pod.

I watched that and had a quiet chuckle to myself. Bet the ST24 owner was gutted.

Was that that 90's Mustang that did impressive burnouts but was carrying so much lard it could barely haul itself up the 1/4 mile faster than a 1L Fiesta despite having an engine 4 times the size?

Two good things came out of it: 1) The plastic crap got decimated by the OSF tin apart from one 4WD MK4 Escort which decimated all. 2) Some of our more illustrious YB Turbo powered OSF brethren actually were nearly as fast or faster than the built for drag racing Pro-Street cars.

On the M40? Sure? I passed one on the M1 just above Northampton being loaded onto a wrecker. Bubble arched orange one with the passenger compartment burnt out and the roof paint burned off. All passengers were stood at the side of the road and the owner, I assume, squatted down with his head in his hands. Felt gutted for the bloke. Said to the missus that it's not like the Mondildo I was driving where you get a cheque off the insurance company and just go get another.

Take your pick. Alternator or waterpump bearing is a usual favourite.

The worst that can happen is the pistons smacking into the oil bends the conrods and/or the crankshaft. If you've massively overfilled it (as in up to the top of the dipstick and yes I have seen people do this) it can hydraulic the engine, locking it up solid.

Glad I'm not alone and there's a few "Gutted" threads popping up. Went to look at a MK1 Fiesta this morning but while it looks nice up top, it's seriously gone on both sides from the front jacking points forward and ideally needs the wing taking off the drivers side to sort the inner wing out. Shame. Fancied a Fezzie after a decade of Capris.

Due to a monumental cockup in timing with selling my Capper, the deal for its replacement falling through (pretty much like the front floor in said deal) and there been plenty to tempt me but alwys £500 out of reach, I've got sod all to go to CF Show in except the family dildo. While it's got all the benefits of modern motoring, does 50+MPG and still manages to 1/4 mile faster than my Capper, it ain't the same. First year going without one and it don't feel right. Might take my chequebook. Bugger.

I may or may not have one spare. Won't know until later on this week but I am more than happy to post it direct to someone next day special delivery for free if it becomes spare.

PMSL.

Might go for a look-see. Not got owt OSF at the mo.

I sold mine off my Anglia van for £300 back in 1992. Very popular with the rallying/hillclimbing fraternity.

Nooooo.... I never ever have stuck on weights on my Capper rims. I always have hammer on ones. And I also don't subscribe to the "no weights on the outside" rule either. Why? Because you don't get as good a balance and on a RWD OSF, you get an even worse one due to the offset of the rim basically meaning any weights you put at the back of the "hub" need to be far larger than they should be to have the desired effect at the outer edge. If it were a modern FWD car though, no weights on show is the way to go but I think with an OSF, unless you're running something like polished minilites, hammer on ones are perfectly OK. Should only need 10-20 grams though if you buy decent tyres.

£80 in Scarborough including postage.

All this "get someone who knows Capris" is just rubbish. A rack should have no more than the slightest amount of play in it, end of. Either you want it testing to meet the MINIMUM safety standards or you don't in which case, find a hookey MOT station.

If the rack has play in it, it's worn. The simple question to ask yourself is whether you'd be happy putting your kids in a car with dodgy steering for the sake of trying to save a bit of money.

Me and my mate did a clutch change on a Cortina in 20 minutes from hitting the ramp to driving off, for our City & Guilds practical exam. Admittedly we cheated a bit by just dropping the exhause off the hangers instead of removing it. Oh, and we'd spent the last few years of our teens fannying around with old fords so we did it on autopilot.

Because creating forged stuff isn't cheap. To forge something you make a mold out of very good steel. You put a plate of the metal you want to forge between the two halves of a mold, and squeeze the mold very hard, as in many tens (and for large things, hundreds) of tons, from a press that may outweigh your house. (The moveable half of the mold is called a "tool"; the stationary half is called a "die.") The metal flows like toothpaste, and when you open the mold, you have your part. A little finishing, and its ready to use. Its an expensive process to set up - the molds are very expensive to make, and the press, while quite simple, is huge, and costs accordingly.

So this convoy is for Saturday and not Sunday?

Taking wife and two kids, same as last year.

I have a funny feeling the rough running and the tappets are linked. My mate thinks he knows about cars. He adjusted the tappets on his Pinto as he likes them silent and it started running rubbish after - stalling a lot and like it was running on 3 cylinders. He asked me if I could pop round with mine so he could pull bits off as he was convinced it was the ignition or carb. I went round and asked him if he'd done a compression test which he said he had and it was "in the green" which immediately got me worried as that means nothing but Gunsons insist on putting it on their gauges. Anyway, he fannied around for 2hrs so I eventually got him to do a compression test on my engine. Now bearing in mind mine is an ex-Transit low compression lump and his is a HC one, his read 130 per cylinder and mine read 185. Told him either the valve seats were shot or the clearances were out. After I'd gone home, he rang me to say he'd slackened them off and it was running great now. So...the rough running is probably down to overtightened tappets. Hopefully the knocking isn't a valve smacking into a piston because they've cocked it up. If it is, claim on their insurance for a new engine.

I deleted everything except saved passwords and form data and it works. FWIW, IE does exactly the same so I'm not sure what the issue is.