Conor

What is wrong with leaving it as auto choke?

Mine keep popping out and I've not noticed any difference. I'd not bother.

I got 28MPG out of my 2.8i commuting on country A roads including a 1 in 6 hill so it shouldn't be much different in cost to the Landrover.

I changed my insurance from a 2L Capri to a 2.8i with lowered suspension, tubular manifolds, Janspeed exhaust, stage 3 heads, fast road cam, prinny brakes and a strut brace all declared. It went up £30 from £120 to £150 fully comp, 3000 miles a year.

I take it you mean you replaced the strips at the bottom of the door glass? Might be the weatherstrip that goes all round the door opening that needs doing. They're cheap as chips from East Kent Trim.

The difference with bike carbs is that unlike 99% of second hand Webers, they won't be shagged and they also return better fuel economy.

Ah. I take it the Burton dizzy is an electronic one? Are you using the positive wire from the coil as a feed for it? If so, I think you'll find that it's about 6 volts short. As a quick "test to see if it's that", run a wire from the +ve terminal on the battery to the +ve terminal on the coil. Won't harm for a few minutes.

Goes from the bulkhead to the engine block. If you look at the centre of the bulkhead on the piccy below, you'll see it rising vertically from the back of the rocker cover, going behind the brake servo vacuum pipe.

Yes to both BUT when I did that with a pre-crossflow anglia engine (option 2) , I ended up in hospital several months later, barely able to walk with two knackered discs in my lower back which required me to have my back opened up and them operated on. Got a lovely 6 inch scar down my spine to remind me. Ever since that day, 16 years ago, I've had nothing but grief from my back, resulting in me not being able to walk 30 yards in 2002 because the disc above the two operated on finally gave up which cost me my job and it affects my daily life. I get the disability component of tax credits for life because it's irrepairable. Today I changed the thermostat on my 2L Capper. The 10 minutes I was bent over the engine left me in agony. So get a hoist and save your back. It ain't worth it.

What is the bar across the back for? A strut brace? If you want to get rid of weight get shut of it because a strut brace on the rear of a car running on leaf springs is about as pointless as it gets. X-frame it instead.

Pay the fine. It is the sellers legal responsibility to notify DVLA. THE REGISTERED KEEPER is the one who gets sent the fine for no tax from DVLA, not the owner, and I don't know anyone who has successfully appealed it.

Gasless MIG are a bit toss TBH..never had much joy out of them. When doing a weld run, you move the torch slightly side to side as you're drawing backwards. Doesn't look like you've been doing that judging by the large pools and gaps there are. It looks like you've been drawing it back in a straight line, letting it build up then moving backwards a little bit. Either that or you've been doing squirt, move, squirt, move like they do on the TV shows like "The Garage" and Wheeler Dealers. That's not how it's done.

I'd have one. Could pick up too as I'm in East Yorks. If thats your current Capri, I think I know what town you're in. I think it'd be worth also offering a package where it has the chrome filler cap and stainless bolts and clamps.

Common knowledge that the 2L returns more MPG than a 1.6, mainly due ot the fact you're not working it as hard during normal driving, but it's only by around 3MPG. Insurance wise there won't be much difference if any at all depending on your age.

The "If you want to buy this MK1 FORD ESCORT RS MEXICO " is usually a dead giveaway. How many people here would put that lot in capitals in a sentence towards the end of the email? You'd put " If you want to buy this car" or something.

You shouldn't need to have an inspection as the engine you're putting in is one that was fitted in those cars. I stuck a 2L in a 1.6 Capper. Sent off V5, phoned insurers. It didn't cost me any extra and they didn't need an engineers report.

10 seconds out of a Pinto - that's just chuffing mental. Whats in the thing?

TBH comparing old to new I don't think anyone would begrudge it being a shade or two out.

You mean to tell me after all this time that that whistling noise you get when driving down the road isn't normal?

Shouldn't have fitted 45's then is the long and short of it. If they're running with a standard cam, they're gonna overfuel the engine or the airflow into the engine is going to be too low so the fuel doesn't get atomised properly. If you're running a camshaft they're suited for, you're going to have crap low engine speed running and a lumpy idle. This is the thing about carbs. Bolting on the biggest you can find actually knackers performance and driveability if the engine isn't built to need them. 45's are meant for engines that can suck in gobs of air at high speed but those types of engine usually require the car in front of you gets 200 yards up the road before you set off as there's no power in yours until 2000RPM and then all hell breaks loose. There's a long list of peopel who have bolted 45's on to cars only to find that whilst they may sound nice, they go slower and run worse and wallop fuel.

Absolutely shedloads. Had one in my Pinto. Pulls like a train all through the rev range you'd normally drive at. Really noticable up hills. Was running a standard 32/36 Weber with it. Add a 4-2-1 tubular exhaust manifold and even with the standard exhaust it makes even more difference. When I went back to a standard cam on the recon engine I had fitted, it felt flat compared to the old one even though that was a smokey joe.

Unless you're using a carb balancing or flow gauge, you're just pee'ing in the wind anyway. And they will run rough anyway - they're 45's FFS. If you wanted a smooth idle, you should've stuck with injection, a Weber 38DGAS or bike carbs. And my stock Pinto on a 32/36 wobbled on idle and there was nowt wrong with that. Just live with it. A car sat there rocking on idle looks like it's got potential IMO.

However they only list the MOT requirements and C&U regs apply as well.

Construction and Use regulations is what you need to be looking at.

Bike carbs. 6 of em.