cossieglen

Good lad! Good luck with it all.

Well done youngun, what you going to study?

Yeah, that's absolutely right, generally the pressure is kept constant too, as it's pumped directly into the engine rather than being sucked from the sump. Basically, it's pumped into the top normally, and then scavenged from the bottom back into the catch tank, where it's easier to keep cool.

Just noticed it's all dry-sumped too

Yeah damn right, would be awesome to have, bet it screams too

Black one has gone then eh mate? Was it the original bloke that took it? Also mate, what ignition are you planning on using for your cossie lump?

How much are they after for that then?

Hello mate, I'm Matt's brother, so if you want to get hold of a kit then drop me a PM and I'll give you his phone number so you can have a chat with him about it.

I think what you'd have to do mate, is maybe compare the two? Things like piston size, and bleed nipple positions, etc etc, make sure they're the same caliper, then if there isn't anything untoward, and they look identical, then I guess there's no harm in trying them.

I also have the 4 pots on mine with a bias box, they do take some pressure, but they're bloody excellent stoppers! To put you in perspective, a friend uses them still on his group 4 mk2 with a 260bhp Vauxhall lump in there, so yes, they're effective! The Squires brothers at Rally and Competition Equipment (for those who don't know) do converted BMW discs that they use on their car which are grooved only (I've spoken to a few people that say cross drilling makes discs weak, the Squires included) which are the right diameter to almost completely cover the pad, only a tiny amount overlapping apparently, for £115 the pair. Give them a call on 01782 517763

Phoned Corbeau yesterday, my seats are going to be ready beginning of next week so all I'll need to do then is sort out the weld in seat mounts I bought from the Squires, and get Gary to weld them in for me, then I'll finally have some decent support when I drive the thing!! Pick up my dizzie and coil from H&H Ignition next thurs too, looking forward to getting that back, I'm hoping it's going to solve my lumpy idle problems, the car was sounding like it just wasn't firing properly before I had it sent away, really fluffy at the exhaust, like it was misfiring? Just couldn't work it out, we'd tried re-balancing the carbs, that didn't make much difference, could be the cam timing. However when taking the dizzie cap off for inspection, my bro noticed that one of the wires had nearly been cut through on the lumenition optical sensor, and that one of the blades on the beam chopper was nearly broken off. He had a lumenition set pack up on him a while back now, and on that occasion wouldn't let him rev the car much past 4000rpm without sounding like it was running anti-lag! So we speculated that it might be due to a similar reason that my car wont idle, and smooths out a little when you give it some beans. Either way, I need the new unit for when I finish my new engine. So fingers crossed that weekend after next I shall have the car running nicely, and be able to take her out for a PROPER drive!

FFS Darren, you would say that now that it's wrapped in about 5 layers of brown paper covered in rust prevention lubricant, and another 4 layers of bubble wrap so I can't bloody photograph the thing!!!

Amen to that Gaz!! I just spent an hour with the very man this morning when I picked up my new head from him, and what a work of art it is!!

Picked up the head this morning Jeff, can't wait to get this built. Gonna run on carbs until I can raise the money to get some fuel injection and throttle bodies from SBD, Steve reckons coupled with the head it should be good for well over 200bhp

Crikey steve! Nice one! just goes to show how bomb proof that old kent lump is eh?! If the diesel rod is that much longer, it might match the length of the cossie rod?

Interesting, however I think I'm going to go for a steel wide flanged one, and paint it blue, as it is a Harris engine I'm building after all

Gotcha, was having a good chat about this today with Ron Harris Sr when I picked my head up from him. He also said you can stroke out using a crossflow rod, but the revs would have to be capped to about 7250 in order to avoid any nasty failures.

Good point there Darran, ok mate, how much do you want?

My accralite forged pistons come with too much meat on for the sake of difference in rod length. I'm not sure if the small end diameter is the same on the diesel rod as the cossie rod, but might be worth finding out if accralite do a 93mm piston to suit one of those rods? Or do you use the standard 90.8mm pistons and literally just stroke it to 2.2? Either way, I think if you want those revs (8000rpm) then you're probably going to need forged pistons anyway? I'm no expert, but I'm not sure the gas flow on anything less than a full race head will allow those kind of revs will it? In which case the compression will be higher and therefore cast pistons will probably go wrong.

Full race head and cam, lightened/balanced cossie bottom end, accralite forged pistons No doesn't come with a rocker cover, will have to buy that seperately, want to get an alloy one, they tend to be less leaky that even the wide flanged steel items.

About the same as my Harris lump then, good stuff mate, hope it's the the round ones! Out of interest, which car is it for?

Did you get my cheque mate? EDIT: Wtf are Posse and Morley? Surely they'd want to be there?

Which is why I'm picking up a lovely shiny full race head and cam from Ron Snr on Friday

Ah I see, I didn't realise they were going for a stroked lump, just bored to 2.1 or something. Yes the big end journal size is the same I believe, but I have a cosworth crank too so isn't actually a factor for me, I'll just be getting that ground -0.025" and the block bored +0.090" to give me 2.1L. Yeah the fiesta diesel rods are good, I used to run some in my old pinto years ago, but I don't think they were the 1.6 ones as I didn't have to have them modified to fit. The only limiting factor really is out and out revs I suppose, but will probably still be good for 7000-7250rpm? I used to rev mine to that anyway, and it didn't blow up on me I've gone for the cosworth bottom end for its strength and reliability at higher revs, as I'll be taking my new engine to 8250rpm

WOW! Are they actually really going to sound like formula 1 cars?! And not like a fat bloke farting?