danny69

Most etch primers are acid etch whereas for ally you need an alkali etch I think.

Because that won`t fit an Essex engine. The bolt pattern on the back of the Essex is different to the Cologne

You could fit an Essex to a five speed type nine but you need an adapter plate fitted to the essex bellhousing, or if you can source a bellhousing from an early granada these do the job but usually fetch over £100. I wouldn`t use you box though as the V6 Type nine is different (input shaft length) and slightly stronger.

You did well to get it turned, usually when you jump on the brakes in a panic in an OSF they lock up and you can`t steer. Atleast you can repair it yourself.

They are both 3.3 - 1 , I don`t think using a PAS rack would offer any improvement, they are heavier than a manual rack too if you removed the hydraulic supply.

The turbo CVH is one of the cheaper ways to get 200bhp. My mate has a home built RS Turbo engine rolling roaded at 200 bhp. Didn`t cost much to achieve either. Standard valves bit of home porting, piper 285 cam and a bigger intercooler. There may have been more to it than that but not much.

Phone the DVLA and tell them you sent it off the slip but maybe it got lost and that it is no longer your car, and then give them the address of the new owner. I bet this happens alot.

The amount I am talking about removing won`t weaken it, the worst that could happen as far as I can see would be the clutch would start slipping a few miles sooner than it would have done with a new cover. But as I only have a 1500 mile a year policy I don`t think that will be too soon.

Hi, thanks for the reply. Mine is for a Essex V6. I have already bought a new Ford Cosworth plate which is the same as is sold for the Essex, ie. 240mm and 23 spline. I have taken the cover apart (into two pieces) and just have the metal disc like face skim. Looks like an easy enough job so I am surprised it isn`t done more often or atleast talked about. Someone must have some thoughts on this?

Just wanted to know your thoughts on this. I have had my flywheel refaced and bought a new clutch plate. Now ideally I would also by a new clutch cover but the one I have is a half decent make (Borg & Beck) and isn`t actually scored. And a new one is expensive! It does have a couple of high spots and a slight ridge around the edge but taking 0.2mm (or about 8-10 thou) should clean it up. Is this a big No No? as I realise it could lead to reducing clamping pressure or is it common practice and nothing to worry about?

How are your front shocks?

This is what I have read several times from different sources, "For the Capri, they homologated the Weber 40 DF15, quite good for racing but no good on the road, as they don't have a power value and give a very rich partial throttle running - washing your bores out quickly" I have copied and pasted the above from Essexengines.com.

I am not sure what they are really worth, but on e-bay with hubs and arms I would say £150 arms but still around £80 -£100 without.

I have found the smaller sizes ie. 5/16 are usually UNC and the larger ones such as 3/8 and 7/16 are usually UNF. That is on my mk 2 Capri anyway, but there is plenty of metric stuff too. Personally I would just buy what you need rather than a huge range that you may never use.

The oil filter for an Essex is the EFL 90 I think.

I`ve just done mine in ordinary 50p a roll insulating tape. Now I feel a bit inadaquete. I didn`t realise there was something better I should have used.

Good Mag, as always I like the creative Front cover There is no harm in the editor being a little self indulgent from time to time, atleast you get a bit of the passion and the personal touch. But there is a good range of cars and I personally like to see the home builds and the old skool tuning that we have seen featured of late.

I didn`t think of that.. I`ll have to dimantle the old legs and have a look

Just wondering if I should? Save me £15 if I don`t need to...

In that case you done a pretty good job

The earlier models had an ARB that wasn`t kinked on the ends where it mounted the crossmember, and as a result it would slide through the bush on heavy cornering. I had a 3.0S and the bar was polished abut 15mm either side of the bush, showing that it was moving through the bush by that amount. I later fitted an anti dive kit with double width bushes, centre mount and the kinked 2.8 ARB and this never moved.

Unfortunatley most Capri anti dive kits don`t have the middle bracket which seems like a missed opportunity to me. Also bear in mind that if you car is already 2" lower than standard you have already dialled in more anti dive than the anti dive kit would give you. I have one for my capri but I may not use it straight away, I`ll see how the ARB sits without it first. They weigh a fair few kilos and being so far forward that is not ideal so I don`t want it on there just for the sake of it. I`ll see how it goes without first, as it will be running pretty low at the front anyway.

Yup good mag as usual. I liked the Pre cross flow Anglia racer that could rev to 83,000 rpm And I never realised that the RS1800 had been renounced! I think renowned would have been a better word to put on the cover of the mag Sorry, I can`t help it if I read all the words.

Stooby, you have done the 195 50 twice, the 175 50 has a tyre wall of 87.5mm

In both examples the 50 profile will have a profile about 3mm less than the 55. Not really noticeable probably.