danny69

Thanks mate!! It is from a $ierra 1.6 10/89-12/91

I have bought a sender with a finis code of 617702. I bought it as a gamble as it looked like a capri one but i think it is a little later. How do I ID finis codes? Cheers

Cheers I`ll see if I can just the the plain plate

I have the old style number plate with the raised letters and the metal back plate and I want to replace them as they are a bit bent and corroded. However the numbers are good so all I really need is the metal plates with the appropriate colour reflective strip attached. Then I can drill them to suit my letters / Numbers using my old plates as a template. Anyone know where I can find such a thing?

Where they on 7" inch or 6" rims?

You won`t want 3.0l legs as your hubs won`t fit back on.

If you could wait a coulpe of months I could drop a pair down to Gaz for you. The ones from my JPS. At the moment they are on my car up at capri gear. But I have some coil overs to go on when it comes back. Depends how much of a hurry you are in.

Nice stance What tyres are they?

I was reading that article on petrol boosters and thinking...only one bhp gain? not worth doing. Then I got to the end and realised you were claiming upto 4 BHP?? Then realised you had put the wrong reading up for the control test Then flicking through I noted that the 280 brooklands came with a 3.9:1 diff ratio, can`t be right they all had 3.09:1 final drives. I haven`t read much of the mag yet but it looks like it will be another good read but if you want a proof reader let me know

It is the V6 with the dizzy at the front and 6 exhaust ports.

Yep, the 2000e "bullet" 3 rail box is basically just a smaller version of the type 5, visually similar from above with the 3 bolt pattern for the gearstick rear cover plate. The gear stick just unscrews from a Type 5 too.

You can buy one from Milton for £140. It bolts straight on. It is for the 2000E box but it is the same stick as the type 5 which you have. I am having a go at making my own and I`ll let you know how it goes in due course. If the gear stick feels sloppy all you need is a new bush turned up for the bottom of the stick, the plastic one will probably be missing or long since disentegrated. Quad cam capri posted a drawing of what you need a few weeks ago in the capri section in answer to one of my posts.

As John says ditch the viscous one, they are just noisy and sap power. A cheap option is to fit one from an Escort RS Turbo, they are up to the job and that is what I plan to use on mine. Only about a tenner too on e-bay. Good to see you out enjoying your car BTW.

The Capri ones are an inch or two longer, whch is not ideal as they may bottom out on a lowered escort. I have done the opposite and used Escort ones on my Capri.

So what is it about the mk3 you prefer? You want the mk2 bumpers? you want the mk2 rear lights? You don`t want the mk3 twin headlamps? You probably want a mk2 grill? I think you want a mk2

Nice shot of the JPS Simon Looks good with that slightly lowered stance. Makes me think I should keep the original wheels on mine instead of going for sevens. Each to there own, but the mk2 3.0S is my favourite followed by the RS3100 and then the Mk 3.0S.

Thought it was the 2nd of March?

I have owned both mk 2 and 3 3.0S`s in the past and when the time came to buy another I went for the mk 2. Proper old school, no tacky plastic trim I actually prefer the front end (with the adition of the sport spoiler). The mk2 actually sold more per annum than the mk3 did in most if I recall correctly except perhaps for one year. But it was generally unloved and a bit like the later cortina they were scrapped when they reached the end of their life. This was probably because the mk3 Capri was still in production so rather than save a mk2 you could buy a mk3 cheaper. But the rarity is good, as now it is the most exclusive one to own.

I feel bad as I think I recommended the Argos one to you. But to be fair mine is still going okay after a year, and they are pretty cheap. It lets a tiny amount of water through if it is stretched too tight over the body work now, altought it started off 100% water tight. Mine is only protecting my donor car now, so that is not really an issue, and as it has no doors letting the windows down a tad is not really needed. The JPS will have a garage once it is finished. Mine you I need to get a roof on the garage first.....

Thanks for all the replies I will get the Valvoline 20/50 for the next change and if I get the oppurtunity I will check the accuracy of the gauge.

Cheers, I was just a little worried that too much oil pressure could be a bad thing? But if it works for you I`ll do the same.

I have done a pretty thorough search and the consencus seems to be that most people run their OSF on 20/50 oil. The thing is, my essex V6 sends the oil pressure needle off the top of the scale when it starts up and doesn`t really drop much even when warm and on tick over. I wonder if I could do with a 10W/40? What do you reckon?

I thought it was 20cm as in 200mm? The 54 might be a percentage of the width as it is normally? So somewhere between a 50 and a 60 profile? More questions than answers

An anti dive kit just lowers the mounting point of the front anti roll bar brackets. If your car is already lowered there is little extra to gain as the ARB will already be sitting close to level. The 24 mm 2.8i ARB is what you need to uprate yours. Usually available for around £20 second hand but you will need to mounting brackets too.

A nose up capri can behave like this, too much air getting under the front of the car. I had a mk2 that was like that until I lowered the front to match the back.