Ray

wanted, a set of original ford bolts (all 3 types) that hold the bell housing to the engine and the starter motor to the bell housing (inertia starter), for a crossflor engine with a type 2 box, they were/are very much specials, as todays bolts have a bigger head these comprise of 4 longer bolts, M10x1.5 pitch, just over 2.1" total length, full thread, with curved flanged washered head (17.5mm dia) and socket size of 13mm, main bellhousing body, 2 per side and screw into the bell housing 3 shorter bolts, M10x1.5 pitch, 37.5mm total length, full thread, with a squared flanged washered head (17mm dia) and a socket size of 13mm, for the starter motor and screw into the bellhousing 2 shorter bolts, 3/8 UNC, i dont have a picture to show of these, but almost identical to the 4 long metric ones, but imperial, with an approximate 37mm total lenth, full thread, with curved flanged washered head (17.5mm dia) and socket size of 9/16", for the top to positions of the bellhousing and screw into the block

welcome, as well as pictures, get some of those cars booked into the classics on the beach, next show is the 19th, (3rd sunday of each mnth, april til october) i will be there with one google classics in the beach southend, and itll take you to the correct eventbrite booking page booking is free, but summer can get booked up if you leave it too late, its a £200 fine if you get caught parking there without the booking pass displayed in the car tho (southend council for you)

good isea Justin, err i mean RP 🤣

its getting rather alarming again, at the lack of names in purple come on guys, you use the site, so support the site cult membership is only £12 a year, compared to what you spend on your cars its a drop in the ocean £1 a month, thats all, that covers the costs to run the site, insurance for events and organising events

you actually got a reply from him, good job im sat down

yep, lower 3 central positions

dosnt actually look like you got a lot left to comb now Colin @colr6 lol, at least you didnt wear those jeans with rips in you call fashion, we know you only wear them to get people feeling sorry for you and throwing donations your way for a new pair

this is a Tippers 70 style, i only use these till i get the proper thing done these are what i have made and this is an original Hills plate

replied

lol, where did i get that reputation from colin @colr6 ok, yes i use tippers, for 2 things, i buy their 70s style plate, but only as an interim, because as you say the fonts are all wrong so i then scour e bay for a while looking for several things, first is the digits in a style you want, and i dont look for a specific manufacturer, i just look for what pleases me, i also prefer the 3D raised opposed to the flat, some are very hard to find if your fussy tbh, the digits can be anything from NOS to fitted to an old plate like your picture, so sometimes you buy a plate to get what you want then your search also extends to a suitable back plate, Hills, Bluemells, or dosnt even need a name if your not bothered, once you have these original matching plates, paint strip them and polish the edges, then get the holes welded up, then begins your job of smoothing the welds once you have your letters and welded plates, you need to send them to tippers, they will fit reflective vinyl and fit the digits at the correct spacing unfortunately ive not found anyone to replicate the original reflective paint tioppers can put a sheet in to make the plate smoother, but you loose the depth when you get it back from them, there will be air bubbles, but mine disapeared after a month, i also take the digits off and clean the hole backs then re fit the digits, as they leave them burred i have quite a lot of digits over, pm me if your looking for something, but i dont have full sets, so may not have them all, or in the style you want

lol, next step an anglebox with carlos fandango wide wheels

some LHD mk1 escort looms had the white connectors, mk1 escort had grey tape, unless the tape has been replaced but tbh, no one is gonna really know from those pictures, you need to lay the loom out so it can be seen properly rather than a bowl of spaghetti

they are tight, they need to be tight, lubricate with a small amount of silicon grease only tap round if your happy to make a small amount of damage the seal is mainly solid, the original ford do have inner lips curved between them, but in the main its solid

the only mk2 loom ive messed with, the loom was all one thing from front to back, with just a few additional looms for little items, and that was from a 79 RS2 custom

firstly, if youve bought NOS, on most that are being sold on the likes of ebay at the moment, the rubber is fubar with age scond you need C spanner and a little lubrication to do it properly or if you like the animal method, then a hammer and punch will do it

thats the case with them all, you chose your level of cover its all the other things you need to look at, like response times, thats all about the number of vehicles they have on the road coupled with who theyre partnered with etc, but i always make sure i have relay cover to bring me home or to a garage of my choosing, in the last 5 years i must have called them out at least 8 times, and theres never been any quibble, i re joined roadside some years ago (id let it lapse) when i was driving a covered in car transporter with a car in the back, was overweight, and they bought the whole lot back home on the back of a very big transporter no argument i wouldnt use anyone else now, they have always has the first van out to me in under 30 mins

you get what you pay for in life unfortunately, AA is the best imho

theres one bracket that screws to the steering column, another to the pedal box and 2 on the splash wall as said above

Tbf, it costs more to overhaul them than it does to buy a NOS one when it comes up, ive had several overhauled now, and if it wasnt for the internal "o" ring, id say it was a waste of money, as they always return the old diaphragm and its always like new, never had a problem with the NOS ones either, other than because generally they were made after mk1 production ceased, the threads are metric and not imperial, so i had to have nuts specially made with metric threads and imperial sized outers to actually look spot on, i know, im a fussy bastard

all the NOS servos ive bought for the mk1s, have always been gloss, with the rest of the parts either satin or a mid way between the 2 if you send the servo to someone like past parts for overhaul, they can powdercoat the casings gloss while apart, however it does take a bit of persuading that particular company to do it, because they have to sub contract that part, and they prefer to just paint them in house with normal paint, but it does look well when they do do it

try looking at the oil pick up pipe in the sump, if its not a really tight fit into the block, ie you need a tool and mallet to fit, they drag in air and cause the low pressure, seen this a few times as the cause of low pressure, and can destroy a re built engine in no time

you dont see them, because you have to hang them from the roof in cars over here

tbh, i gave up printing them off and tryng to keep track of it all, because (1) e bay no longer let you go back that far on purchases like they used to, and by time i had realised that it was too late. (2) i found myself repeatedly changing parts for better parts as they came along, and i just totally lost track the car itself and main restoration pictures say enough imho

it looks more like an electric scooter on one of those council share schemes to me, and the twit is holding a laptop and not the handlebar, whilst on a mobile phone do as you likey bikey

go purchase a magnum mirror, they are quite cheap, throw the mirror in the bin for what theyre worth, but they come with 2 new seals to fit mk1 and mk2 doors and being new rubber they are soft, and yes they fit the ford mirror, done this on Nicks car