-
Posts
2,496 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
114
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Store
Events
Collections
Everything posted by Ray
-
MK1 Escort Repro rubbers - Any recommendations?
Ray replied to Herr Doktor's topic in OLD SKOOL FORD CHAT
i just buy from e-bay from him to be honest, not sure if he has a web site, his hardura boot mats are very good as well heres an e-bay link to him http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ESCORT-MK1-REAR-SCREEN-SEAL-CHROME-TRIM-rs1600-mexico-rs2000-twincam-rally-/331023581739?hash=item4d128b022b:g:TYEAAMXQigBSNYWg -
MK1 Escort Repro rubbers - Any recommendations?
Ray replied to Herr Doktor's topic in OLD SKOOL FORD CHAT
if you need to slam the doors after youve had new sills or any welding to the sills, try this (copied from my post on another site) 2 plastic mallets, one covered in a microfibre cloth (as the car is painted), slowly fitted the seal and at the tight points i tapped the metal edge that the seal sits on back until it eased the closure of the door, i used the wraped mallet against the lip and hit the head of it with the other mallet, slowly going round till it was all done things to note, the seal i used was exactly the same size as an original, so not an over or undersized one, an original seal is cut short by a few mm, i first thought it was age shrinkage, but it appears to be needed, i got to the end and the door shut nice before trimming the seal, still a little tight but not into a slam, i trimmed the seal so it was tight and the join was hardly seen, then i had to slam the door again, so after looking at an original fitted, i trimmed it to have a 2mm gap, and hey presto back to tight but not slamming, i also lubricated the D section of the seals with vaseline and wiped off the excess so that the door slides on the seal rather than pulling on it im not saying it would work for everyone, but worth a try, and would reccomend doing before paint if you can, and obviously the less it takes to slam the door in the first place, the better the final result should be, but dont expect to just tap it and it be sorted, it takes a bit of time and quite a lot of manipulating both the seals in the links above are to the same size D section as original, but the works escort one has both a more original look and size on the grip piece, and in my opinion is the better seal -
MK1 Escort Repro rubbers - Any recommendations?
Ray replied to Herr Doktor's topic in OLD SKOOL FORD CHAT
the kit above is a window seal kit for the door seals, again works escort has the best ones, followed by retro bolts -
MK1 Escort Repro rubbers - Any recommendations?
Ray replied to Herr Doktor's topic in OLD SKOOL FORD CHAT
my seals came from works escort as a kit, i bought the kit 18 months ago, but had the screens and back windows fitted today funnily enough screen and side window seals fit fine, but the chrome trim was a foot short for both windows, so i got to source more have not fitted door seals as yet so cannot comment, but didnt like the look of the inner, so sourced genuine ford ones to go in front quarter light seals, just plain too small, quality good, just too small, again had to source and fit genuine ford, these didnt come in the kit either, they had to be bought extra -
Distastefully Modified Old Skool Fords - Show us your worst!
Ray replied to Vista's topic in OLD SKOOL FORD CHAT
in the main it dont look too sad, till you get to that spare wheel and boot rack lol -
his original plan was to sell it, and everyone said they hated the brown, thats why hes done it orange, but hes decided to keep it now, as he said he couldnt replace it, and he was also shocked at the lack of corrosion, he hasnt just sprayed the outside, this is a total strip of the car inside and out as well as the best part of the engine, and hes bare metaled the body but car restoration is his living
-
try going to a local machine shop and asking how much to make from a bit of nylon by the way, the other 4 smaller ones, the repro are rubbish, something someone has bought off the shelf thats similar but the wrong size, the rods wont sit properly with them, so you also need to get them made to original as well if your going to do it properly, these cost me about £4.50 each to have made from solid and i had 12 made 2 sets for me and one set for the trimmer when you look at the shape of the bit you need, £25 a set of 4 is cheap
-
the guy who welded my escort has one, hes just putting it back together after bare shell restoration, hes had it donkeys years, not sure if hes done the right thing in changing the colour though, it was a typical 1970s brown, its now a gorgeous metallic orange, but of course no longer original
-
The escortrs ones are the ones we binned as no good, we had to get a local machine shop to copy the originals good luck on the one youve lost, they are rocking horse droppings
-
Mk1 Escort Interior. Any "Top Tips" please?
Ray replied to Herr Doktor's topic in OLD SKOOL FORD CHAT
whilst never having fitted a headlining, i have removed one, those clips hold the headlining in place in the channel above the rear quarter windows and are a permanent feature, my suggestion would be to get a trimmer to fit the headlining, i did and he also said the repro bushes for the rods are no good, so we had to get some made to match the originals you will find that most repro stuff for escorts is rubbish unless its made by stage 1 those inner window seals look awful, so i never tried to fit them, i had to source genuine ford for my own satisfaction stay clear of repro front quarter rubbers as well, they are too small ive yet to try my outer seals -
total waste of time, effort and cash
-
Hi Daran would you by any chance have 6 to 8 of these they are the clip that goes on the kick panel in 2 positions each side thanks Ray
-
from where im sitting, i would get the spraying finished and dont worry about it just yet, its not as if your driving it then on re-assembly, as a safety precaution, replace the rack at minimum, i would even do the track rod ends something is clearly at fault, anything from un noticed mall adjustment, to some serious wear or damage
-
i think the steering rack is fubar, and certainly unsafe of anything other than a laid up car, i would change the rack asap i can only think it was either like it and you didnt notice or dragging it has ripped the threads in the rack itself and started pulling the bar out, as clearly the track rod ends have not been touched
-
its sits under the rear parcel shelf, between the boot lid springs and the parcel shelf to be precise, allows air circulation, but cuts the noise down, sound deadening if you like, and also stops the boot light being seen from within the car when the lights are on, on an escort, as the mk1 never had a boot light switch, the boot light is on all the time the lights are on, it also stops you seeing the boot lid springs between the vent holes if you open the lid of a mk1, and look in that area, you will see all the fold over tabs that hold it there dont think theres many escorts left with them tbh, as evryone wants to know what it is, and ive been after one for 18 months dont know if the mk2s ever had them, as ive never looked at a mk2
-
Sourced, Darran at Escort Tec saved the day
-
pictures tell a thousand words
-
Hi Darren or Mark pls see pics below, im after 1 or2 of these if you have one, pls advise
-
as per title, pls see pictures, i need 1, but if 2 came along i wouldnt say no
-
think its more of a case of how many of us wished we had kept them after buying at that price
-
thank you not only was it left hanging for a year, the car was assembled hanging, and everything initially tightened at that point, having undone everything with it sat on the floor now, nothing moved, even my body weight wouldnt push it down so im having to put a lot of weight in the car to get it down, going by your reply, once down, i will unload and see how far it raises before i tighten the suspension and fit the ARB many thanks for the advive colr6 going to the garage to have a play now
-
Hi Guys just getting back into my resto after a year or so break, the car was initially put together on a 2 poster ramp, so as you can imagime when she sat on all fours it was like looking at a big foot so today i decided it was time to sort that out, only i cannot find much info on how it should be, the car is as follows totally standard mk1 escort series 2 1300E, 2 door saloon, that has the rear anti roll bar the haynes manual is a chocolate tea cup, as there is no mention of the rear anti roll bar at all, or std ride height dimensuins for any of the 4 wheels so i picked up a copy of the haynes manual for the mk2 escort, knowing that if not the same it should be close happy days, roll bar is covered, however, what i need to know is, while the anti roll bar looks the same, is it, are the set up dimensions the same the haynes instructions for the mk2 are as follows with the car on all 4 wheels and all bolts for the reaf springs, axle front anti roll bar and front lower arm inner bols slack, with the bolts that hold the rear ARB to the axle removed set the ARB bush centrelines to 265mm from the centreline of the straight part of the ARB load the car up with weight until the centre of the 2 spring bushes, on each end, are inline with the centre of the axle tube (not sure how to measure that yet, as a straight line is out as the axle is in the way lol now what i need to know is, are this procedure and dimensions above, the same for the Mk1 and MK2, or does the MK1 have different dimensions etc i need to clarify, because, when i fitted the ARB on the ramp, the dimensions were set at 285mm, not a technical decision, just so as all the bolts fitted, (but the axle was hanging from a 2 poster ramp, but on the ground the car wouldnt compress the springs with human weight, which i assumed it was the ARB incorrectly set stopping it now i have set it at 265mm (from the M2 manual), and im weighing the car down, which i roughly worked out that its got to lower the top of the arch by about 4 inches, ive got it down by around 3 inches at the moment, and the ARB mouns for the axle are miles off, looking like 285mm was more around the correct setting, as that would push the ARB back but i do probably have another inch to drop it yet now assuming the 265mm is correct, and the ARB to axle mount holes line up, what happens as you remove the weight, because at the point it was when i started, the ARB needed to be set at 285mm for the bolts to fit, or is there really that much strain there and it stops the body rising please help
-
ive bought a few things from them through e-bay, all been genuine new old stock ford parts so far, so no issue on quality, and been a good service
-
im torn as to buying one, as the car no longer has its original registration the car was bought in 2011/2 (have to pull paperwork out for the exact year) just for the purpose of removing its original plate and fitting it to a motorcycle thats the part that really annoys me, dont think it should be allowed personally, but thats life so if i fit a tax disc with the current reg no, it wont really be right what r your thoughts