What Post 2000 year cars do you fancy for 2 to 3000 quid?

[katana]

Welcome to the modern world of COP's or Coil on Plug's - each plug gets its own coil and the cars ECU monitors spark supply volts and can sense if a particular plug doesn't fire and logs it for later diagnostics. They rarely all go at the same time and most places say - if one is going, the others could go ! ! ! Yeah its a rip off - bit like changing all 4 tyres cos one has a puncture! I don't know what 85 Aus. Sheckles equates to but I got 4No. new LS COP's off ebay for about £50 and they work fine on my Zetec - well it fires up, runs and gets noisy so assume thats ok LOL!

[Rally Pack 2000]

7 hours ago, katana said:

Welcome to the modern world of COP's or Coil on Plug's - each plug gets its own coil and the cars ECU monitors spark supply volts and can sense if a particular plug doesn't fire and logs it for later diagnostics. They rarely all go at the same time and most places say - if one is going, the others could go ! ! ! Yeah its a rip off - bit like changing all 4 tyres cos one has a puncture! I don't know what 85 Aus. Sheckles equates to but I got 4No. new LS COP's off ebay for about £50 and they work fine on my Zetec - well it fires up, runs and gets noisy so assume thats ok LOL!

LOL But I dont want to be in the modern world! Im happy with one coil and listen for misfires! I want to be person not a cyborg with a registered QR code and still read paper maps and not be scolded when I dont plug my seat belt in right away! Its not too much to ask but people look at me like a freak when I do 🤪

[Rally Pack 2000]

7 hours ago, dt36 said:

Could well have been the sleeve slipped down then... 

This engine does have individual plug on coils and you might as well change all four if one starts faulting as the others won't be far behind. Would have expected this to throw an EML light though. However, usually you need to see about 10 occurrences continuously for it to log. 

Might as well keep it now that you've invested into it. 😉

If I can get the seats sorted there seems little point it looking for something else only to get no return on all the new bits. I would have effectively corrected all its faults and then sell it for less that I paid for it. I have an eye out still for some 90's potential legacy future classic that there will always be a good supply of parts like Escorts and Minis. I cant seem to even come close to knowing what that is yet though.

[Rally Pack 2000]

The car had a flapping noise from the start which I suspected one of the front tyres as it seemed close to its wear markers so when all the tyres were replaced I expected the noise to vanish and it did for the first day or so but then came back even louder. That tipped me off to what the problem was. All the centre caps were really really loose! Noisy blighters!

Expanded the springs and added some cushioning tape should silence the beggars. Wouldn't mind getting some replacement Ford symbols for the centre as a couple of them have faded but most most on Ebay seem to be a tiny 54mm while these Ghia ones are huge! Slowly whittling down the rattles and problems.

[DT36]

8 hours ago, Rally Pack 2000 said:

The car had a flapping noise from the start which I suspected one of the front tyres as it seemed close to its wear markers so when all the tyres were replaced I expected the noise to vanish and it did for the first day or so but then came back even louder. That tipped me off to what the problem was. All the centre caps were really really loose! Noisy blighters!

Expanded the springs and added some cushioning tape should silence the beggars. Wouldn't mind getting some replacement Ford symbols for the centre as a couple of them have faded but most most on Ebay seem to be a tiny 54mm while these Ghia ones are huge! Slowly whittling down the rattles and problems

Look at one of the site sponsors, DMB Graphics as they do loads of sizes and are good quality.  About £20 a set. 

I've just had a set made at 75mm by a local lad for £15. My original badge was 73mm.

My centres are very similar to yours and the pic below shows them stripped down for powder coat as only the outer is metal. 

I rebuilt the caps, but put Stickaflex between the components before re-assembly. 

Also look at the rear of the cap and it will have a locating lug that lines up with an indent on your wheel centre. This probably lines up with the tyre valve. Lots of garages/tyre bays don't put the caps back in this position, so they rattle a bit. 

 

[Rally Pack 2000]

7 hours ago, dt36 said:

Look at one of the site sponsors, DMB Graphics as they do loads of sizes and are good quality.  About £20 a set. 

I've just had a set made at 75mm by a local lad for £15. My original badge was 73mm.

My centres are very similar to yours and the pic below shows them stripped down for powder coat as only the outer is metal. 

I rebuilt the caps, but put Stickaflex between the components before re-assembly. 

Also look at the rear of the cap and it will have a locating lug that lines up with an indent on your wheel centre. This probably lines up with the tyre valve. Lots of garages/tyre bays don't put the caps back in this position, so they rattle a bit. 

 

Those are unusual centre caps, what do they look like complete?

(Im certain the designer of the Mk2 Rubber rear spoiler had deep workbench shortage issues)

[DT36]

37 minutes ago, Rally Pack 2000 said:

Those are unusual centre caps, what do they look like complete?

 

[Rally Pack 2000]

47 minutes ago, dt36 said:

 

Ahhhh now I know the ones, Its funny you need to see them on the wheels to know which they were as off the them they look completely different.

Do you find going from your older cars that its touchy off the line? I have been told its just the fly by wire system as opposed to cables but I simply cant get use to it and it surges off the line or just creeps slowly I cannot feather it from the start at all. I dont seem to be improving with time either.

[DT36]

34 minutes ago, Rally Pack 2000 said:

Do you find going from your older cars that its touchy off the line? I have been told its just the fly by wire system as opposed to cables but I simply cant get use to it and it surges off the line or just creeps slowly I cannot feather it from the start at all. I dont seem to be improving with time either.

I would lean more towards your transmission oil rather than the pedal. 

You could get the calibration checked on the pedal from its 0% and 100% position, but I find potentiometers very linear and smooth in their operation. Usually when they drift they affect idle or max rpm more. 

If you have a service book, check if the oil has ever  been changed in the auto box. 

[katana]

14 hours ago, dt36 said:

 

 

 

Completely off subject but I was always instructed that the yellow dot on the tyre should be located adjacent to the valve as its the lightest point of tyre so fitted at heaviest point of wheel - Discuss?

Edited December 14, 2021 by katana

[DT36]

20 minutes ago, katana said:

Completely off subject but I was always instructed that the yellow dot on the tyre should be located adjacent to the valve as its the lightest point of tyre so fitted at heaviest point of wheel - Discuss?

Just Googled this and you are correct.  I've learnt something here today.

The yellow dot indicates the lightest part of the tyre sidewall. On a wheel or rim, the heaviest part is generally the valve stem. During fitting the yellow dot is aligned with the valve stem of the wheel. Having the dot and valve stem in alignment means technicians won't need to use as many balancing weights.

Spookily, I messaged the guy that did my powder coat about an hour ago, as I have another wheel I need doing this week, due to recently hitting a pothole disguised as a road.  Will let him know about this.

Edited December 14, 2021 by dt36

[BaileyMex]

2 hours ago, katana said:

Completely off subject but I was always instructed that the yellow dot on the tyre should be located adjacent to the valve as its the lightest point of tyre so fitted at heaviest point of wheel - Discuss?

Every day you learn something new, cheers!

[katana]

Just thought i'd pass it on - maybe explains why some wheels have soooooo much lead attached. Bike tyre fitters seem anal about getting this right!

[Rally Pack 2000]

16 hours ago, BaileyMex said:

Every day you learn something new, cheers!

 

14 hours ago, katana said:

Just thought i'd pass it on - maybe explains why some wheels have soooooo much lead attached. Bike tyre fitters seem anal about getting this right!

I didn't even realise they had yellow dots! I never paid that much attention. I just went out and looked at the tyres just put on the Focus last week and sure enough the yellow dot has been aligned with the valve on all 4. Credit to the local mechanic who is not an official tyre retailer as such he just supplies them when needed for servicing and rego checks but he has a wheel balancer and gets his son to put on the tyres and he obviously knew to match the dot and valve. What are the red dots for then?

[katana]

The red dot is the opposite of the yellow. Some wheels will be made such that the valve will be positioned to make it the lightest point so the tyre should be positioned red dot / valve. Its confusing as there is no clear identification of what's what with the rims! I can't remember seeing red dots on bike tyres but they are clearly more safety critical for out of balance tyres!

[katana]

Also it just occurred to me that the current 'must have' tyre pressure monitors fitted in each wheel will likely also have a balance effect - one would guess opposite the valve would be ideal although usually located on the hub to avoid tyre iron damage!

[DT36]

39 minutes ago, katana said:

Also it just occurred to me that the current 'must have' tyre pressure monitors fitted in each wheel will likely also have a balance effect - one would guess opposite the valve would be ideal although usually located on the hub to avoid tyre iron damage!

Just dropped my newly acquired second hand wheel off with Powder Coater during my lunch break and raised the subject.  He said he was aware of it, but he found it didn't make any difference to how he balanced tyres up, so doesn't bother now 😁

Cost me £50 for wheel and another £50 to get refurbed.  Expensive pothole, but I guess I'm not going out spending my pocket money on any rugby matches and beers again this Christmas

 

[Johnny Boy]

I  am not young 😄, and I have always put the red dot to the tyre valve, and not needed to balance. who knows what dot goes where, but I do know that it works for me every time.

[Rally Pack 2000]

15 hours ago, Johnny Boy said:

I  am not young 😄, and I have always put the red dot to the tyre valve, and not needed to balance. who knows what dot goes where, but I do know that it works for me every time.

My distance internet perceptions have been totally shattered now, I will be calling you Johnny Man from now on! 😀

[Johnny Boy]

Strange thing, how you percieve people online, and make a picture in your head...................

Obviously very young at heart 😁

[Rally Pack 2000]

On 14/12/2021 at 08:18, DT36 said:

I would lean more towards your transmission oil rather than the pedal. 

You could get the calibration checked on the pedal from its 0% and 100% position, but I find potentiometers very linear and smooth in their operation. Usually when they drift they affect idle or max rpm more. 

If you have a service book, check if the oil has ever  been changed in the auto box. 

Hi Dale the surging issue just seems to be getting worse so exploring your fluid theory. What type of fluid should it have do you think?

[DT36]

56 minutes ago, Rally Pack 2000 said:

Hi Dale the surging issue just seems to be getting worse so exploring your fluid theory. What type of fluid should it have do you think?

What's your engine and gearbox type combination?  Gearbox depends on type and size of engine in your model.

Do you have a website, something like the one below that you can type your model or registration into to give you the info?

https://www.eurocarparts.com/

 

 

[Rally Pack 2000]

14 hours ago, DT36 said:

What's your engine and gearbox type combination?  Gearbox depends on type and size of engine in your model.

Do you have a website, something like the one below that you can type your model or registration into to give you the info?

https://www.eurocarparts.com/

 

 

Ahhh I have no idea what Auto transmission is in it. Its a 2007 Focus with a 2lt Duratec engine There are local spare parts places that you can type in your number plate to get certain parts I hadn't thought of that for oils and fluids actually good tip thanks. I remember doing it for the Mk2 once to see what  happened and it didn't recognize it and told me to check for errors! LOL I think I can remember the number plate after the first 30 years 🤣

[Rally Pack 2000]

On 14/12/2021 at 08:18, DT36 said:

I would lean more towards your transmission oil rather than the pedal. 

You could get the calibration checked on the pedal from its 0% and 100% position, but I find potentiometers very linear and smooth in their operation. Usually when they drift they affect idle or max rpm more. 

If you have a service book, check if the oil has ever  been changed in the auto box. 

Hi Dale, Ive been looking into this as I suspect you are right on the fluid. When the car is cold just round the corner from home every time you feel and hear it it slipping into second gear. But it only does this when the car is cold suggesting that the fluid viscosity may not be correct? I used the car parts guide at a couple of auto parts stores locally but they seem to give conflicting results as to what fluid should be used. If I have it correctly then a generic synthetic auto transmission fluid wont really do and that I need to get this Dexron/Mercon stuff but there seems to be different generations of it so will this be too advanced for the 4 speed transmission on a 2007 Focus? Thanks so much (its on special at the moment as its very expensive at the best of times so what to get it now while its cheaper is its the right one!)

[DT36]

I think yours is Mercon V. Have you got an Owners Handbook in the glove box?