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Posted

Morning all,

Had an issue with one of the wires from the ignition parting from the connector block leaving the crimp inside it, I managed to remove the crimp and reconnect but it isn't great, could someone point me in the right direction as to where to purchase these connectors as seen below, thanks:

 

Crimp Connector.jpg

Posted

Not surprised the wire fell out - it hasn't been crimped correctly! I'd check all the other wires as if one is bad, its like the others are too! If you find a source for the terminals, you'll also need the correct crimp tool for a successful fitting! I've done many various crimp terminals just with needle nose pliers - but I also solder them to avoid your issue!

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Posted

Just ordered a soldering iron kit, now need to source the connectors, I agree that a soldered joint is the strongest and most reliable.

This will be a winter job as I need to remove various items such as the front seats (getting old and the body won't bend as it used to), the centre consol, switch panel, etc as there isn't much slack in the wiring and a few things are working intermittently so would be a good time to sort it all out! 

In response to your comment Katana, the connector was crimped but I don't think that the wire was fully engaged and that's why it pulled out, I had to uncrimp the connector to re-crimp with the wire inserted, yes I used long nosed pliers just to carry out a temporary repair but will do a proper job during the dark cold nights!

Posted

Can you post a better photo of the pin and also the connector? I have most here.

Contrary to common belief soldering is not the best method for automotive wiring. Only for wires where the voltage/current is very low. And tinning the wires before crimping is a good recipe for bad connections!

Posted

Interesting, I think that the soldering method is used as the crimping tool can be expensive for your average DIYer, I do have a crimping tool and boxes of your average red, blue and yellow connectors but not the type that fit in to the connecting blocks. I will have to contort myself back into the drivers footwell to take some clearer photos, probably one evening this week.

Posted

I had an issue with my Nodiz ecu wiring connection coming loose at the crank sensor plug. the car kept cutting out for no reason. it was loosing sync with the crank trigger wheel.

The pin wires were hardly noticeably loose.

I soldered them , not had any problems since. 

I did them with the correct crimps, but I didn't twist the wire ends, I think that was the initial problem.

Posted
4 hours ago, Miniliteman said:

Can you post a better photo of the pin and also the connector? I have most here.

Contrary to common belief soldering is not the best method for automotive wiring. Only for wires where the voltage/current is very low. And tinning the wires before crimping is a good recipe for bad connections!

The tinning comment is an interesting one as it was and still is best practice on electronic and electrical installations over here. Without it you don't get a good solder. Plus it's almost impossible to solder through a crimp.

 I hope we don't get high voltage or current through our switches it may make for some interesting smells and hair styles 🤯🤣

Posted
7 hours ago, Nige65 said:

Just ordered a soldering iron kit, now need to source the connectors, I agree that a soldered joint is the strongest and most reliable.

In response to your comment Katana, the connector was crimped but I don't think that the wire was fully engaged and that's why it pulled out, I had to uncrimp the connector to re-crimp with the wire inserted, yes I used long nosed pliers just to carry out a temporary repair but will do a proper job during the dark cold nights!

A soldered joint isn't necessarily the strongest and most reliable joint - it is a method I use in the absence of a correct crimp tool. Correctly crimped terminations will stand up to years of use and abuse - OEM's generally ONLY crimp wires and terminals / plugs! A badly made crimp can fail with or without solder!

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