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Wow thats very informative thanks. So Blue and Green are interchangeable for older iron blocked and headed cars? Blue would be better as when you stop at car shows there is a bit of overflow and looks like the car has had a wee. Blue matches the Ford badge!

Often hear people complaining about the potholes in the UK .................

Nelson Mandela is sitting at home one day watching TV when there is a knock at the door. He opens the door and finds a delivery man with a clipboard, standing next to a wagon full of car parts. Mandela says he didn't order anything. The delivery man insists he has the right place, and they argue back and forth over a few days. Finally, Mandela loses his temper completely, grabs the man by the shirt front, and yells: "Look, I don't want these! Do you understand? You must have the wrong name! The delivery man looks puzzled, consults his clipboard, and asks: "You not Nissan Main Dealer?

A picture says more than alot of words (the damged head).

Having a wee on the grass at car shows is an age thing James. It happens to us all 🤣.

Now there's a question James. As always it depends. Generally, "There are three main variants of antifreeze available in the UK, which are identified by different colours. Green antifreeze Green antifreeze, or IAT (Inorganic Additive Technology) is recommended for older vehicles - those built before 2000 - with more metal components in the engine than later vehicles. The lifespan of green antifreeze is typically 36,000 miles or 3 years (whichever comes first). It shouldn't be mixed with other types of antifreeze fluids. Orange antifreeze Orange antifreeze, or OAT (Organic Acid Technology) is more suitable for newer vehicles, with engine designs that use more aluminium and plastic/nylon components than those built before 2000. Unlike green antifreeze, it lasts longer and doesn't need to be changed as frequently. Its lifespan is typically 150,000 miles or 5 years (whichever comes first). It shouldn't be mixed with other antifreeze fluids. Red antifreeze Red antifreeze is typically made with hybrid organic acid and lasts longer than green antifreeze, requiring fewer changes. It should be replaced every 150,000 miles or 5 years, whichever comes first." The rule of thumb though is blue old car cast iron/ red new car aluminium or other. I've seen the damage done to a classic car head and block with the use of red antifreeze. 🙈 Over here in the UK our blue is ethanol glycol based and is the more traditional coolant and antifreeze and is of the IAT variety for older cars with cast iron blocks and heads. Does that help? If anyone as a question about antifreeze or other fluids for their car send Witham Group Technical a message. See picture for details. I have been working with them on a guide to help members and its almost ready, so I will publish it once done. I think @Miniliteman asked for it.

My old flatfront Pinto's RS2000 had 2 sidetanks, one on each side. The left one just had the filler in the boot and was connected to the right one. Been to the UK in that car, without having to stop for fuel. (photo taken at taken at Boreham in the 90s)

Never realised how low the Aussie tanks sit ! I always thought they would be . . . . . more 'fitted' with slightly raised boot floor to accomodate !

Back again with another MK1. Sold my Le Mans green Mexico rep back at the end of 2017, have missed it ever since, had a MK2 1600 Sport with a spanker of an engine in it but now back and the proud owner of a genuine AVO 1973 RS2000. Would love to know if anyone has any previous history or information about it.

Modena Green sits quietly at the back, and smiles a knowing smile.🤫

Ahem. No.

It's not Dave, Mail order is your best bet.

Go with the one that is best for your engine James. Make sure you fully flush including your heater matrix. I back flush with a hose on low pressure. Get all the crud and old antifreeze out. I would be tempted to flush, fill with just water, run the car up to temp and then drain. Flush again then do the 50 50 mix of antifreeze. Don't forget it's antifreeze first. In this way you get all the old stuff out and clear alot of crud.

Completely agree Leon. They should never be mixed as they are not compatible. On another point I've seen a cast iron block destroyed by waterless coolant.

James, it's your age mate, we make allowances for you........🤭

I would never mix different (colour) anti-freeze / coolant. Have seen a BDA head which had blue coolant in it at first, owner then put pink/red in it without completely drain and flush it, completely ruined it. Top tip: whatever coolant you use in case you need to top up just use demi-water, same stuff you put in batteries.

Not long now gang. Get your tickets bought and come and see us. If you have forgotten the discount code it's attached. If you want any Withams Oil send me a message and I can arrange 😊 Before I forget, pick up a copy of Retroford Magazine Dec Edition (out soon). I've done a feature with Richard Scarbrough from Witham Oils regarding wintering your classic. It's sure to raise some questions 🤣

Hi all, if you are coming to the NEC and want some oil or antifreeze let me know beforehand and I can arrange it so you save on carrier charge. 20w50 and blue antifreeze is easy. Anything else message me asap. See you there 😊

Well you can drive up and down street gutters without the tank ever touching so never had interference from a speed hump

Wow, do you still have the car, or is it long gone 🤔

Cheers James, I'm about to have Tea and I feel quite queasy now!

No they are completely under an unaltered normal boot floor as a drop tank. You can see in that rear shot of the blue RS2000. Many local muscle cars of the time used drop tanks often shiny silver alloy to make them look sporty. The Escort one was a crinkle finished matt black. It lowers the centre of gravity of a full tank and also centre it for a more even weight distribution and gives you a 54lt capacity as opposed to 40 litres. It works very well although naturally more exposed to denting but they are made quite robust with thicker walls. One extra positive when you compared early cars with side tanks and the later drop tanks is the boot floors dont rust out as underneath is not exposed to water and elements anymore.

Australia expands DEI polices for aircraft ground-crew but no one rushes to be first to be first to disembark.

If anyone’s at the NEC on Friday, be good to you. Ticket booked.

What will you be using for wheels for you car projects though? I wouldn't want you leaving yourself short? 25 Euro a wheel seems very good value even if you have to pay to have them restored. 199 Euros is pretty good too to have such heavy items sent all this way. If you are sure you dont need the wheels im happy to send the money to you. Ive been busting my brain for years how to repay you for your constant help over the years, any suggestions? LOL Some may not know but Australian cars suffer from severe C pillar rust due to a moisture absorbing seam sealer used by Ford Australia. For 4 doors its even worse and replica replacement panels aren't available. My C Pillars come all the way from the Netherlands and the car wouldn't be allowed on the road thanks to Marcel cutting them off a car and sending them all this way! Its funny at shows I often get asked by Escort enthusiasts, how is it you have not rust in your C pillars, what's the secret! LOL C Pillars from the Netherlands! Thats the level of help you dont get anywhere else but OSF!

Holy moley, 19 years ago!

215/55/13 seems the closest https://novamotorsport.com/products/nova-zzs/ Nova ZZS - Nova Motorsport.PDF

I use road legal motorsport tyres on my van (Avon Motorsport ZZS, though they are now branded as Nova Motorsport) and though I don't often take it out when it's really wet, I haven't ever had any problems when I have been caught out out with it in the wet.

Wow Marcel are you sure you dont want these wheels for your own projects? I dont want to take them away from anything you are doing. Where do you acquire all these wheels? Thats DHL price is really good, Leon and I couldnt get a grill sent without it costing a fortune and thats light compared to these things! No need to paint them, Im happy to have them refurbished. It costs the same whether they are Capri ones or the RS ones so I thought If Im paying that sort of money I may as well spend it on the proper RS ones. I cannot accept another generous gift though please let me know an amount that would be able to get you out an about on a trip you would like to go to! Always blown away by the generosity of people on this forum.

The man who invented autocorrect has died. May he roast in piss

Hi Chaps, Wish you all the best for the show, I'll pop in on the Saturday just to be a nuisance😄 🤪 Ray can you have a look out for those reversing lights... Buddy 🤭

Welcome back Jimbo. For Mk1 Capri panels I'd honestly try the Parts for Sale section first and put up a few decent photos with the condition of each panel, since Capri people tend to snap that stuff up. If you list them as a job lot you'll probably still get a fair few interested. If you want to ring round restorers as well, ask in the Capri-specific groups like the Capri Club and the Mk1 Capri Retards Club groups, because they'll know who's actually working on Mk1s near you. Worth checking the panels over for rust and any repairs before you call, as restorers will want to know what condition they're in before offering. Good luck with the clear out.

Hello Jimbo, still a few of us around. Things are a lot quieter than the pre Facebook days though.

Lovely MK1, best colour.

Very very nice. Do get up more photos and spec when you can please