stephens_xpack Posted May 1, 2017 Report Share Posted May 1, 2017 Has anyone tried this, someone has mentioned this to me and sounds like a good idea. I think I have some old shite build up in the engine and want to flush it through best I can. Any tips or advice would be appreciated. Essex V6 is engine in question. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2512pf Posted May 1, 2017 Report Share Posted May 1, 2017 I put some viagra in my 1 1l fiesta Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
katana Posted May 1, 2017 Report Share Posted May 1, 2017 Its a water softener not a detergent so will probably achieve the square root of f**k all - you could try Caustic Soda - not saying it'll be any good but at least its supposed to clean stuff! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colr6 Posted May 1, 2017 Report Share Posted May 1, 2017 Be like chitty chitty bang bang with all the bubbles coming out the exhaust ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vista Posted May 1, 2017 Report Share Posted May 1, 2017 But hey, it'll live longer with me t and your clothes will wash better Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stephens_xpack Posted May 1, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 1, 2017 I thought that was the song...Essex engines live longer with Calgon.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
accord83 Posted May 1, 2017 Report Share Posted May 1, 2017 About 10 yrs ago I had a Standard Flying 12 which the previous owner had regularly filled the cooling system with fresh, clean, stream water (he was proud of this). He lived in a limestone area and the radiator was one big breeze block. I took it out, plugged up the bottom and then added 2 packs of Aldi dishwasher descaler, which smelt suspiciously like citric acid. After a week I unplugged it and put a hose down it, a stream of white crap flowed out and it became a piece of kit for cooling again. I didn't do the engine block as I had a spare and the original was rattling like a old Dachshund brood bitch with thimbles on it's nipples running down a cobbled street. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stephens_xpack Posted May 1, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 1, 2017 Aha, so it can work. Thanks for that i am gonna try that as well, it certainly can't hurt. Cheers accord83. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grant Posted May 2, 2017 Report Share Posted May 2, 2017 You need to use central heating flushing and descaler in the system ... that's what I did and it done a real good job, I put the whole botttle in that was designed for 25 household rads, I then ran the car for 2 hour's ' 2500rpm then flushed it out, it did a really good job, of course you could leave it in there and drive it around for a few days then flush it 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stephens_xpack Posted May 2, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2017 Cheers Grant, I will look at that. Just feel that after car sitting for so long, I will feel a lot more confident driving it long distances knowing that the engine isn't full of shite and just waiting to overheat as a result. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray Posted May 2, 2017 Report Share Posted May 2, 2017 you need a de ruster, not a de scaler, safetykleen, Halfords and frosts restoration all do a water based de ruster, not cheap, but tends to be very good, I can vouch for the safetykleen one, but not with engine in situ, I did it with block and head submerged in a tank, mine was very heavily rusted, to the point water couldn't flow, 3 days submerged and it was like new inside, and removed all the corrosion even from where you would never get otherwise whatever you use in situ, you run the risk of opening up holes and making leaks appear where the corrosion has sealed the holes, but at least you can repair them I suppose, then know your ok to drive a distance if your going to do in situ, I would remove the stat first, once rid of air locks, just let it sit, the safetykleen one will come out as clear liquid once its done its job, you wont see any rust or rusty water when you drain it, if you do, then it hasn't finished, not used the other 2 to comment I used this on a lot of parts where sand blasting would have damaged the part Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colr6 Posted May 2, 2017 Report Share Posted May 2, 2017 It's alright using these de-rusters/ scalers but what you've got to think of with an engine in situ is the solution doesn't think oh that's a gasket I'm not going to touch that! I would be very sceptical about using a corrosive solution on a built engine. You've only to look what happens using antifreeze it finds weak spots in any cooling system. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grant Posted May 2, 2017 Report Share Posted May 2, 2017 you need a de ruster, not a de scaler, safetykleen, Halfords and frosts restoration all do a water based de ruster, not cheap, but tends to be very good, I can vouch for the safetykleen one, but not with engine in situ, I did it with block and head submerged in a tank, mine was very heavily rusted, to the point water couldn't flow, 3 days submerged and it was like new inside, and removed all the corrosion even from where you would never get otherwise whatever you use in situ, you run the risk of opening up holes and making leaks appear where the corrosion has sealed the holes, but at least you can repair them I suppose, then know your ok to drive a distance if your going to do in situ, I would remove the stat first, once rid of air locks, just let it sit, the safetykleen one will come out as clear liquid once its done its job, you wont see any rust or rusty water when you drain it, if you do, then it hasn't finished, not used the other 2 to comment I used this on a lot of parts where sand blasting would have damaged the part Maybe Ray's correct here, I did use the Fernox central heating descaler and slude remover, I think it is designed for rust aswell but have a google about it, I did say by PM to Stephen that is was F1 but that is a inhibitor designed to used after cleaning in a central heating system.. please note that Stephen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stephens_xpack Posted May 3, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 3, 2017 Yeah all good points, I don't want to be dislodging a thing that i shouldn't. I will have a few trips in her first and see how she fairs, don't want to completely stuff the engine seals before the summer is up... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Veemax Posted May 12, 2017 Report Share Posted May 12, 2017 its common on the essex V6 to corrode full of rust around the front left cylinder as you sit in the car, the one by the block drain plug, I've found on loads that when you take the block drain plug out no water comes out, sure sign the water jacket is blocked up, so its heads off really caustic soda i have tried a couple of times, it will clean the block of dirt, grease, oil and any scale but wont actually touch any of the iron rust, so you may need to try the special made chemicals mentioned Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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