Electric fan

[preacherman]

My pinto escort is getting very hot almost overheating. I have a 12in fan in front of radiator pushing aid in. It's brand new but does not seem very powerful.

 

No thermostat. Timing spot on. New 55mm core radiator. Plenty water circulation but lots of hot water

 

The car warms up very quickly and driving stays at 80 degrees when stopped in traffic with fan on the gauge will get to 95 quite quickly. I think the fan (12 fan on a switch " at £18)is not man enough to force cooler air through rad.

 

Any thoughts on possi of issue and can anyone suggest a good fan .maybe a spal one.

 

Neil

[nosher 64]

Could be wired in the wrong way round..

Try reversing the wires..

[Rally Pack 2000]

I dabbled wit thermo fans over the years and each time the fan was never able to match the original mechanical fan set up. It always did exactly as you described. Only if the car was moving would it not overheat.

[Vista]

Fans are generally either pushers or pullers, are you sure you have the right type to act as a pusher in front of the rad?

[khanlad]

Is it a normal or high power one? Ive just fitted a larger fan thinking i was clever, but because of it being bigger could only fit normal power one, hp ones tend to be thicker, im pretty sure my orignal one was better even though smaller? Having said that it still gets to just over 90 then kicks in and holds temp at that until we move again.

[anglia58]

hi, I have a 1600 ohc with a 1300 head, I use a original rad, original fan, and a thermostat of a mini 76 degrees, you have them in 71, 72, 74 degrees, you have to fill them smaller to make then fit, these will fit a crossflow with out modifications,

my cars stay cool, they just will come out of the bleu on the temp gauge, and stay there,

you could try this setup, cheers marcel

[preacherman]

I don't have a thermostat , I read on another forum that this causes the water to pass to quickly around the  water system thus not allowing the water to stay sufficiently long enough in the radiator to become cooler.

 

What about this waterless coolant stuff , sounds much easier than changing fans and stuff , what concerns me is that the engine will still be hot circa 90 degrees + but wont boil over. I cant see the point as high engine temperatures affects clearances and performance.

 

The fan is on the outside nearest the front grill it is drawing air into the fan , when you put your hand on the other side of the radiator you cant feel a thing.

 

I had an electric fan on my 2.1 Capri albeit off a 1.4 fiesta ...no problems at all.

[HotRodMatt]

I don't have a thermostat , I read on another forum that this causes the water to pass to quickly around the water system thus not allowing the water to stay sufficiently long enough in the radiator to become cooler.

 

What about this waterless coolant stuff , sounds much easier than changing fans and stuff , what concerns me is that the engine will still be hot circa 90 degrees + but wont boil over. I cant see the point as high engine temperatures affects clearances and performance.

 

The fan is on the outside nearest the front grill it is drawing air into the fan , when you put your hand on the other side of the radiator you cant feel a thing.

 

I had an electric fan on my 2.1 Capri albeit off a 1.4 fiesta ...no problems at all.

You should be able to feel the air on the other side of the rad, are you sure it is drawing the air in? Or maybe the cooling fins have crud in them preventing the air passing through.

[stephens_xpack]

Apparently car engines do run cooler with no thermostat due to the water not being kept in the engine until the thermostat allows it out and into the rad. But supposedly engines run more efficient if kept hot which is what a working thermostat should do.

[RWL81P]

Apparently car engines do run cooler with no thermostat due to the water not being kept in the engine until the thermostat allows it out and into the rad. But supposedly engines run more efficient if kept hot which is what a working thermostat should do.

correct!

[katana]

But ultimately running the water quickly round the system doesn't help cooling - just takes longer to heat up. The engine still gets hot but if the water can't pick up the heat, it isn't actually being cooled sufficiently. When I was playing with big bore Cooper S engines, the age old wisdom was remove the stat but this didn't help cooling and led to overheating some cylinders. Someone came up with an insert that went into the stat housing that slowed the flow whilst giving a minimal restriction - this dropped temps adequately but stopped cylinder over heating.

I'm using the Evans waterless coolant in my Zetec conversion mainly to simplify the components and hoses but the zetec is designed to run at 95 - 100 degrees, i'm not sure i'd want to run a pinto or x-flow type engine near those temps for long. You should definately be able to feel significant airflow from a elec. fan whether mounted push or pull, engine side of the rad!

 

Edit - this is the thing...... http://www.minispares.com/product/Classic/11G176.aspx

[HotRodMatt]

I've heard of people drilling a 3mm hole in the body of the stat to allow SOME flow before it opens.

 

Sent from my SM-A320FL using Tapatalk

[deltamal]

Kenlow make a 'high power' electric fan, I have them fitted and it made a difference to the standard ones...not cheap though!

[2512pf]

Waterless coolant is gr8

But very expensive and you have to make sure it's flushed with the correct chemical

[mk1del]

With no stat fitted shouldn't really get warm at all, are you sure water pump ok ,make sure the impeller turning ok, no circulation would cause overheating, worst case possible head or gasket issue

[deltamal]

Waterless coolant is gr8

But very expensive and you have to make sure it's flushed with the correct chemical

 

It deffo makes a difference then? I've looked at getting some a few times, 

[2512pf]

It deffo makes a difference then? I've looked at getting some a few times,

 

It's gr8 stuff but the engine/ head have to be in tip top condition

[mk2 matt]

should run a stat, if no stat water runs too fast through rad and don;t have time to cool down

 

get a stat for a mini runs at 74 degrees, just have to use some tin snips to cut it smaller as its a bigger diameter 

[preacherman]

So, my temp sender with red band is mounted in a bullet alloy housing in between the inlet radiator pipe. The housing has a blind tapped hole M3 which I ran an earth cable off.i am using an after market gauge and sender.

 

The temp with this and previous engine always shot up to 80 and hovered around this + _ 10 degrees.

 

So I got a good quality calibrated thermometer from qa lab and found the gauge was + 30 degrees error. The car running around 50 degrees. So I took the earth off the alloy housing and reading is spot on. Gave the car a good bollocking nice and hot and got to 75 degrees with fan on.

 

It explains why I could not get 80 degree thermostatic switch to kick in and auto switch on the elecy fan cos we never got to this temp. It all makes sense.

[mk2 ben]

Take the fan off and get it going laying flat on the floor if it don't start to hover when switched on it's either wired the wrong way round or just a crap fan I've got one off an old Ford Focus on my mk 5 works ace but you gotta make sure the polarity is right one way will suck the other will blow

[mk2dk]

Hi

Had similar problems with my Pinto. Had a 12" electric push-type fan in front of the radiator. On warm days it just kept running and never stopped. Engine temp was ok but the fan was on the limit all the time. Did a little investigating on diffirent fan types and air flow. Upgraded to a 12" Spal push-type fan with curved blades, as the specifications said it moved 3 times the air of the old one. Now the fan kicks in and runs for 30 sec then shuts off. Using the old fan, I had to use a piece of papir to ensure correct air flow through the radiator, but the new one feels like a hurricane compared to.

 

mk2dk

[John escort mk1V6]

Yes Mat , i do this normaly also becourse the air get out better with reflilling and what i did see with mine 2ltr ohc estate is with a cold start the temp goes high up than there came a little bit coolingfluid out just before the thermostat opens , so i did loose the thermostat.

 

But preacherman how about your exhoust is that the correct one i mean is this freeflowing enough ?...... resistance means heat.

And if nothings helps try a airco push fan from a Granada mk2 or a other ford they need more electric energy but they cool very good.

[preacherman]

So , i fitted a capillary type water temp gauge and all is well. Got it from Min Spares who are very reasonably priced.

 

The electronic version was too inconsistent and will be binned , with or without earth its all over the place.

 

The electric fan appears to be doing its job , i have a few ventillation holes in the bonnet and all is well.

 

Happy days

 

Neil

[katana]

Yes Mat , i do this normaly also becourse the air get out better with reflilling and what i did see with mine 2ltr ohc estate is with a cold start the temp goes high up than there came a little bit coolingfluid out just before the thermostat opens , so i did loose the thermostat.

 

If i'm reading this correctly - with a thermostat, the engine warmed up quickly and puked a bit of coolant out of the overflow? Er - that's what its supposed to do! If coolant comes out, it is because there is too much in the system. A rad shouldn't be filled up to the cap else there's no room for expansion - usually just above the cores is about right when cold. Removing a stat is just a way to run an inefficient engine! If its boiling before the stat opens - either get a lower temp stat or increase the spring / poundage rating of the rad cap.

[John escort mk1V6]

Hi Katana , what i did forget to say the new fillercap was also bad , but what we think is that the thermostat went to late open.

The engine did warm up in a normal time period.

And yes it can be true what you say about the engine did not run inefficient , becourse later when we did place the dubble valve springs , than came out that the fourth cylinder did leak , and what we find out that the headbolts did miss the washers or is it normal that the pinto doesn`t have the washers ?

So now have ordered a set at ARP .