Ray

yeah, but takes up too much police time, just think they could be aiming their anger at the sitting duck motorist, and the first fine would pay for the cartridge

just shoot him, a lot easier ohh and don't forget, "shoot to kill"

well im happy

obviously small people as they were caught short

colin, the wings on that key in your back, are so large I can turn the thing from here

is it really much different to the rest of the kit cars on here ??, to make any of them right, would probably not be viable now

they are not cheap, but you get what you pay for, these are about the best repro item ive seen, Tim has spent a lot of time and effort to get these to a stage where you would never know the difference from these to NOS, with both in your hand, but you try and find them NOS I bought 2 sets and WOW, i just cant describe how well these have been copied, I have an original ford set to compare against, and theres just not one thing you could say is wrong absolute perfection for a show car

ahh, thanks Dave, now I know what asus stands for, A SUSpect part

why is it I cant copy a post, I cant aopy and paste anything in at all, and if I use the backspace it goes back a page and looses everything typed it only happens on this forum, and only since ive gone windows 10

i think the point to my comment was right royally missed lol I was not talking about concourse or entering competitions, and it wasn't about winning originality contests, you should know I'm not one far taking my cars to shows or a track my point was, if you claim to have an old skool ford, then in my opinion, unless you can prove that a part is no longer procurable, whether it be new, re-con or re furbish able, and its very un-economical to re manufacture, then that part shouldn't be on the car, but it should be acceptable to fit an old ford part from a different model if it will do the job, keeping it old but when you take a ford body, put aftermarket brakes, suspension, or parts from a late ford or parts from a different manufacturers vehicle, then you no longer have an old ford car, you have what is effectively a kit car so if your going to put a Vauxhall red top engine in, why not just run the Vauxhall car in the first place by putting a zetec engine in say a mk1 escort, its no longer a mk1 escort, and its no longer an old school ford, and the free road tax should be revoked

ahh but they aren't old fords anymore, as Colin says, kit cars, or lookie likies lol, you cant class an anglebox powered with a Vauxhall lump as a ford its a bit like the question from the other post as to what newer cars should be allowed in OSF I cant understand why anyone had to ask, OSF lets anything in, as long as it looks like an OSF, everything else on the car can be as modern or new or any other make as you like most cars on here aren't proper OSFs anymore

reminds me of the, I think it was 1970s, cartoon the jetsons

mines only covered for 1000, but actually done about 10 yes it has done that lol

thats all those angles the fuel has to go round before it hits your RED hot bores lol

tbh, first fire up of the E after cleaning, and wow, it was good, then is sat for a year due to couldn't get access, and I'm not happy with its running since, despite fresh fuel, so I've just bought a brand new carb to see if its that

you couldn't have needed it that badly Colin, if its taken you that long to use it they are bloody good tho aren't they

ha ha, wagging your chin Colin, that conjures up a good image lol, quiet area ??, showing your age Colin, one throw away BBQ, expecting a large response then Colin, so what does the weather have to do with using your ipod Colin

about time you tidied up that anglebox then colin

is that for burying the anglebox under the patio Col

you need a de ruster, not a de scaler, safetykleen, Halfords and frosts restoration all do a water based de ruster, not cheap, but tends to be very good, I can vouch for the safetykleen one, but not with engine in situ, I did it with block and head submerged in a tank, mine was very heavily rusted, to the point water couldn't flow, 3 days submerged and it was like new inside, and removed all the corrosion even from where you would never get otherwise whatever you use in situ, you run the risk of opening up holes and making leaks appear where the corrosion has sealed the holes, but at least you can repair them I suppose, then know your ok to drive a distance if your going to do in situ, I would remove the stat first, once rid of air locks, just let it sit, the safetykleen one will come out as clear liquid once its done its job, you wont see any rust or rusty water when you drain it, if you do, then it hasn't finished, not used the other 2 to comment I used this on a lot of parts where sand blasting would have damaged the part

ahh but obviously like me colin, old enough to remember it, creeps up on you too dam quick

windows 10 wont allow copy and paste on here, but ref the mk1 tina, reminds me of Colr6 and vivians anglebox from the young ones lol

very good, but really just brushing over the very large cracks, no that's wrong, crevices in the Adrian Flux empire you would be far better off taking some well earned lessons from your competitors

as the doris said, its the kids that do the peeing lol