Nige65

Welcome aboard 👍

Mine is “car wash” by Rose Royce!

Yes, there should be a tube inside the rubber bush to prevent overtightening, you can normally tell if one is fitted as the split pin hole should line up with castellation's on the nut once tightness has been achieved.

Thanks for all the information supplied, it's been a great help and I'm sure that other forum users will benefit in the future, I have now ordered the bulbs required and look forward to stripping the dash and tinkering 👍

I will only be changing the clocks/gauges illumination lights as these are very dim when dark, the rest (battery, indicators, high beam, etc) are fine. Thanks for the info, much appreciated 👍

I got a quick response from Duncan at Classiccarleds so will go down the LED route, what would be the best lighting, white or warm white and how many dashboard illumination lights are there not including the indicators, high beam, etc (I haven't had time to remove the dash cluster yet)?

As per any old car, the wiring is a bit messy with modifications, I even have a starter button where the manual choke would locate, my thinking was to connect to a permanent live which I think would be connected to the cigarette lighter, the only wiring diagram that I have is in the Haynes manual which I find really difficult to read as it is so small, I've tried taking a photo with my mobile and zooming in but that only takes a small section of the schematic. @Vista Estate Do the LED's fit without modifications? @Rally Pack 2000 Thanks, I will await more info.

Evening all I now have a working centre console clock that my good friend repaired for me, I would like to fit the bulbs that illuminate it when the lights are turned on, could anyone on here point me in the right direction regarding the bulbs and holders that are required for this, I’m assuming that I will have to connect them to the lighting circuit somewhere in the loom. Thanks in advance 👍

I have just had the same problem albeit with a Type 2, I changed the nylon saddle that fits over the selector shaft and that cured mine 👍 Found this on eBay, searched for Type E gearstick saddle 👍

I have just had the same problem albeit with a Type 2, I changed the nylon saddle that fits over the selector shaft and that cured mine 👍

Mine started to do exactly what you have described, I replaced it with one of these: PCA00100LUC Genuine Lucas Classic Alternator Remanufactured 18 ACR - (gsparkplug.com)

Welcome to the forum 👍

I have to agree, speaking personally I don’t use social media so this forum is my main source of information and £12 (around 2 1/2 pints of pop) is a small price to pay especially when you have described the workings of it in such good detail 👍

Interesting, I think that the soldering method is used as the crimping tool can be expensive for your average DIYer, I do have a crimping tool and boxes of your average red, blue and yellow connectors but not the type that fit in to the connecting blocks. I will have to contort myself back into the drivers footwell to take some clearer photos, probably one evening this week.

Just ordered a soldering iron kit, now need to source the connectors, I agree that a soldered joint is the strongest and most reliable. This will be a winter job as I need to remove various items such as the front seats (getting old and the body won't bend as it used to), the centre consol, switch panel, etc as there isn't much slack in the wiring and a few things are working intermittently so would be a good time to sort it all out! In response to your comment Katana, the connector was crimped but I don't think that the wire was fully engaged and that's why it pulled out, I had to uncrimp the connector to re-crimp with the wire inserted, yes I used long nosed pliers just to carry out a temporary repair but will do a proper job during the dark cold nights!

Morning all, Had an issue with one of the wires from the ignition parting from the connector block leaving the crimp inside it, I managed to remove the crimp and reconnect but it isn't great, could someone point me in the right direction as to where to purchase these connectors as seen below, thanks:

Have to agree with you regarding modern colour choice, I looked at a car park where I used to work and it could have been an old black and white photo such was the dullness of the cars, I always thought that white was the cheap base colour and buyers paid extra for a primary colour!

Thanks for the in depth reply, I have ordered a pack of 20 self adhesive backed dodo mat, probably more than I need but once I have the interior stripped out over the winter, I can have a play around with it 👍

As the title says, does it work or just add weight to the car, although I like the sound of the aftermarket air filter, I would also like as quieter cabin. If so, are there any recommended types of sound deadening that folks on here are happy with, I've scanned the web and Dodo mat seems to be a good shout but open to opinions.

Great, thanks for the quick response 👍

Managed to to get my hands on a radio cassette for my Mk2, I believe this may be out of an early Mk3. I'm after a bit of advice on how to wire it up and what connections go where (the speakers are self explanatory), I have the kit to use crimps but not the the plastic block to fit in the back so hoping they will be okay, any info will be gratefully received, thanks.

I've just remembered that many years ago, I made a set of kick panels for the front footwells of a mk1 Mexico out of hardboard and covered them in black vinyl, it looked good and was easy to keep clean, might try sourcing some brown vinyl for my Sport and giving that a go.

I would like to breath new life into the parcel shelf in my Escort, I have though about using brown shoe polish as that is the colour of the interior panels, is there a product out there that might do the job rather than shoe polish?

Looking good 👍

Aerial on the roof?