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  • Moderator
Posted

Ive just been using tapered Ford nuts for the Laser wheels on the Mk2 Escort but I think they really need to be located better with a sleeve at the tip not just relying on the taper. I see that Classic Parts Shack does them, but never dealt with them, any one any other sources?

https://www.classicpartsshack.co.uk/store/p310/Ford_Capri_Mk3_Laser_wheel_nut_12mm_x_1.5mm_(Box_6)__Sold_Individually.html

Posted
10 hours ago, Rally Pack 2000 said:

Ive just been using tapered Ford nuts for the Laser wheels on the Mk2 Escort but I think they really need to be located better with a sleeve at the tip not just relying on the taper. I see that Classic Parts Shack does them, but never dealt with them, any one any other sources?

https://www.classicpartsshack.co.uk/store/p310/Ford_Capri_Mk3_Laser_wheel_nut_12mm_x_1.5mm_(Box_6)__Sold_Individually.html

Whilst I can see what you are talking about, but surely the wheel location and centralisation is achieved with the big spigot in the centre of the hub & shouldn't rely on the wheel nuts. I actually prefer a taper seat nut compared to the 'tube nuts' fitted to mine and other RS models as the centre spigot is largely redundant in my case due to using wheel spacers, so I have to be careful doing the tube nuts up not to get an 'out of round' rotation!

  • Moderator
Posted
4 hours ago, katana said:

Whilst I can see what you are talking about, but surely the wheel location and centralisation is achieved with the big spigot in the centre of the hub & shouldn't rely on the wheel nuts. I actually prefer a taper seat nut compared to the 'tube nuts' fitted to mine and other RS models as the centre spigot is largely redundant in my case due to using wheel spacers, so I have to be careful doing the tube nuts up not to get an 'out of round' rotation!

My wheels seem to think they are individuals and not part of a set and each corner has a different quirk. The left rear locates on the spigot as you say and needs to be bashed off with a hammer. The wheel nuts could come off and reckon that wheel would stay on. Another however loosens and the taper of those nuts seems to facilitate that and it no longer centres. I prefer tapered nuts as well but this one wheel seems to eventually loosen and slightly drop as it looses the location ability of the taper not being as tight as it should. I just thought the proper nuts may offer a bit of both worlds with the tip of the proper nuts taking a bit of pressure off the tapered seats of that particular wheel. Its all just a theory of course I could be totally wasting my time as you say.

Posted

Can't be certain, but check the wheel rim against a fixed point whilst rotating it - a slightly bent / buckled rim will cause imperceptable vibration enough to loosen the nuts. Or the tapers have just plain worn out and the contact surfaces (wheel and nut) aren't sufficient to hold applied torque?

  • Like 1
Posted

capri laser wheels are what Nick once had on his mk1, speedshack make the nuts to order for that applicatiom, after 1 rear wheel cam off at 20mph and then 2 front wheels stuck to the hub because the nuts were seized in place, trying to undo them just tore out the stud splines, i had to grind the studs from behind with a die grinder to release the wheels, it was apparant the wheels were worn out, the tapers were so worn the nuts on the front went too far on and locked to the stud, and on the rear he also had spacers and the wheel came off because it wasnt in lock

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  • Moderator
Posted
8 hours ago, Ray said:

capri laser wheels are what Nick once had on his mk1, speedshack make the nuts to order for that applicatiom, after 1 rear wheel cam off at 20mph and then 2 front wheels stuck to the hub because the nuts were seized in place, trying to undo them just tore out the stud splines, i had to grind the studs from behind with a die grinder to release the wheels, it was apparant the wheels were worn out, the tapers were so worn the nuts on the front went too far on and locked to the stud, and on the rear he also had spacers and the wheel came off because it wasnt in lock

That does sound a worry. Was Nick using regular tapered nuts or ones with the extra location bit at the end? By the sounds of it maybe the tapered only nuts are best as they can never attached to the stud the whole way and in turn cant lock on?

Posted
7 hours ago, Rally Pack 2000 said:

That does sound a worry. Was Nick using regular tapered nuts or ones with the extra location bit at the end? By the sounds of it maybe the tapered only nuts are best as they can never attached to the stud the whole way and in turn cant lock on?

RP, the nuts were specially made by classic car shack for putting the lazer wheels on a mk1, its going back about 4 plus years ago now as i was in my old unit, and i cant remember their design, but it was the wear in the wheels themselves that was the problem and not the nuts, the taper was so worn that on the front, the nuts went in too far and locked on the stud and left the wheel in a situation where it didnt feel loose,by hand, but was clearly not tight at the back, and the lock on the stud at the front tight enough to rip the splines out trying to remove them, on the back, he did have spacers, which is why the wheel came off, if he hadnt, that one would have locked on the stud as well, iirc, upon investigation, there was only one wheel of the 3 that wasnt worn, im guessing that perhaps a hammer gun had been used in the past and probable a few too many times

 

 

 

  • Like 1
  • Moderator
Posted
16 hours ago, Ray said:

RP, the nuts were specially made by classic car shack for putting the lazer wheels on a mk1, its going back about 4 plus years ago now as i was in my old unit, and i cant remember their design, but it was the wear in the wheels themselves that was the problem and not the nuts, the taper was so worn that on the front, the nuts went in too far and locked on the stud and left the wheel in a situation where it didnt feel loose,by hand, but was clearly not tight at the back, and the lock on the stud at the front tight enough to rip the splines out trying to remove them, on the back, he did have spacers, which is why the wheel came off, if he hadnt, that one would have locked on the stud as well, iirc, upon investigation, there was only one wheel of the 3 that wasnt worn, im guessing that perhaps a hammer gun had been used in the past and probable a few too many times

 

 

 

Some of the other wheel manufactures must have seen the possibility of wear in these tapered seats and made some improvements. Back in the late 80s when we couldn't get RS or Laser 4 Spokes here, there were a few other brands that did a similar design. I bought a set of Enkei Cross Fever Racing wheels which were probably better made than the originals but there were expensive in their day and made in Japan. They also used tapered seats but they reinforced the with steel inserts. I still have them to this day on the Twincam as it sits in dry dock. They don't have extra room around the nut for a bit of the sleeve at the end and rely solely on the taper

  • 5 weeks later...
  • Moderator
Posted

I went ahead and ordered a set of their wheel nuts so will see how I go with them and report back. I did feel that the large whe

The postage from them is quite high to Australia if you only order a set of bushes or something but its the same when you order a bunch of stuff so I took advantage of that and got some spare control arms as well as a few other bits and bobs. They charged me 20% GST though when ours is only 10% so not sure what that was about. I wrote them to ask about it but they never replied but I ended up paying it anyways.

  • Admin
Posted
2 hours ago, Rally Pack 2000 said:

I went ahead and ordered a set of their wheel nuts so will see how I go with them and report back. I did feel that the large whe

The postage from them is quite high to Australia if you only order a set of bushes or something but its the same when you order a bunch of stuff so I took advantage of that and got some spare control arms as well as a few other bits and bobs. They charged me 20% GST though when ours is only 10% so not sure what that was about. I wrote them to ask about it but they never replied but I ended up paying it anyways.

Vat here is 20% but it shouldn't be charged on overseas orders being exported out of the country 

  • Moderator
Posted
2 hours ago, Vista said:

Vat here is 20% but it shouldn't be charged on overseas orders being exported out of the country 

Yes they say they dont charge VAT for overseas but do charge for our local GST but our GST is only 10% but they charged me 20% all the same lol

  • Moderator
Posted
On 15/12/2022 at 23:10, BIG G said:

Nice fella is Steve👍

Has anyone bought anything from Classic Parts Shack recently? I got a confirmation text when I placed the order but haven't heard a word since. Just wanted to make sure they were still actually in business and all that. I never gotten a reply through their online contact form either.

  • Moderator
Posted
12 hours ago, Miniliteman said:

nigeria_419.jpg

Sorry to hear that, Im assured by the Crown Prince himself that my money is totally secure so I dont need to worry. He chose me specifically for our business partnership.

Its funny I just got message from Classic Parts Shack that my order was just shipped in less than a day posting above LOL Its always the way, I wonder if they read these pages? LOL

  • 2 months later...
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